Food to Fuel Stand Up Paddling

By Frank Giacomo

What you eat before your session can make a real difference to your SUP experience. It can help you to call on the energy and stamina required to keep going as long as the waves keep coming in. Without it you could find yourself sitting on the shore watching everyone else having a ball on their paddle boards because you didn't prepare well. Just as you would fuel your car, you need to fuel your body. So how do you prepare?

1. Carbohydrates - SUP is an endurance sport and relies on your ability to perform powerful movements so this is the fuel that your muscles need the most. Carbohydrates are also known as 'brain food', being the only fuel that your brain can use. If you don't eat enough carbs your body will need to slow down while it turns fat into fuel - not what you want if your racing against challenging waves or on a long-distance paddle.

2. Good fat - you don't need a lot, but you definitely need some especially when this endurance sport can require you to call on your body's fat stores to get through that last half an hour of paddling. Avocados and nuts are a good start to replacing your body's fat stores.

3. Protein - in addition to assisting your body to build muscle, protein is a vital part of a balanced and healthy diet and a strong immune system. It repairs any muscle damage that exercise can cause and keeps bones healthy. However, it is important to balance your protein intake as too little can lead to a loss of muscle mass and too much will only cause strain on the kidneys.

4. Fluids - 60-70% of the body is made up of water. Loosing just 2% of your body weight in fluid (which is easy to do in an hour on a hot day out in the water) can be detrimental to your performance, leading to lethargy and headaches. Making sure you replenish your fluids is extremely important. If you are doing strenuous paddling, you may need to replace lost electrolytes and this can be done through sports drinks and others with salt of citric acid to aid in absorption.

5. Calcium - as one of the key foods to building stronger bones, calcium is important to ensuring your bones are resilient enough to avoid fractures or bone diseases like osteoporosis. Calcium is abundant in different foods and can be found in sardines, tofu and dairy products.

6. Vitamins and minerals - leading a balanced and vitamin rich diet with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables is extremely important to your health and your ability to exercise. Vitamins and minerals will help your body to perform well and to recover from exercise.

With a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates, good fats, protein, fluids, calcium and vitamins and minerals, you should be fueled to perform. Now grab your paddle board and enjoy those long SUP sessions.

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HOW TO STORE YOUR PADDLEBOARD AT HOME

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 29 - 2 more hours

Sanded and scraped to feather the edges of the reinforcing glass at the inside butt seam. Lightly sanded the inside edge to smooth out the saturation coat. Almost ready to glass the inside of the hull. Instructions say to lay down a strip of masking tape ¾" above the upper chine. Problem is how. I used a technique my body shop does at work to place lettering on vehicles. They use a jig to mark the dimension necessary and use that to align the tape. The craft sticks I have been using to stir the epoxy are just ¾". Worked great and fast.

Days 30-31 - 5 more hours

I have found parts of this project tedious, mundane, rewarding and exciting, but the last task I have completed has been the hardest; glassing the interior of the hull. This was tough to complete. It is nearly impossible to use the squeegee. All it did is raise the glass out of the seams. I ended up using a brush to carefully seat the glass to the surface. I know there is an excessive amount of epoxy on the surface but there is not much I could do about it. Even so there were several areas where the glass formed bubbles that I didn't find in time. Those areas I cut out the bubbles and used a piece of scrap glass to cover the areas properly. Maybe if I had more experience with glass/epoxy I wouldn't have found it so hard. No complaints, you have to learn somehow.

Days 32-35 - 8 more hours

I have spent the last few days getting everything ready for gluing the deck on. Surprising how much has to be completed first. I glued the studs for the footbraces in place. I like that so much more than drilling holes for bolts through the hull. I also put a fill coat on the glass in the cockpit area. Lots for smoothing out and filling areas where contact would be made by the paddler. No jagged edges rubbing my legs please.

I have started glassing the bulkheads and hatch components. I have decided to install my bulkheads (but not the hatches) before I glue on the deck. I have discussed this with Pygmy and their reply was "Our standard recommendation is to install bulkheads after all hull construction is complete to avoid any issues with your deck fitting the hull that can come up if the bulkheads are installed prior to deck being glued down." I am more concerned with their fit and until they are in the hull I can't verify their fit to the deck. This will also allow me to glass tape on both sides of the forward bulkhead.

Done for the week, now time for my kayaking.

Days 36-37 - 2 more hours

It has taken 2 days but I have the bulkheads installed in the hull. I used the glass tape on the cockpit side, since it will be seen and scraps on the hatch sides, since it won't be. I gave the tape side a day to cure before doing the scrap side. I noted that the hull was bowed out slightly from the bulkheads. To bring everything back together, I used my load straps to pull everything together. Worked good! I will use them again when I glue on the deck. They can exert a lot more pressure than tape and I didn't have to drill more holes.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

Kayaking Security - Preventing Kayak Theft

By Larry S. Kang

Sometimes when kayakers are out on the water, they will want to leave their kayaks somewhere unattended. For example, many great kayaking locations are near trails, beaches, or other interesting places to hike around. It's always nice to be able to leave the kayak and explore a paddling destination. However, kayakers who do this should give some thought to the security of their kayaks and kayaking gear.

One of the more obvious issues with leaving kayaks unattended is theft. Kayaks are vulnerable to theft in a number of situations, such as when left on a shore, on a car-top rack, or even when stored at home. However, reliable statistics on the numbers of kayak thefts that occur in these various situations may be difficult to find. Kayak theft does occur, though, as is sometimes reported in the news, kayaking forums, or stolen kayak databases.

If you are keeping your kayak on your car rack, there are several options for locking your kayak, including locking tie-down straps, or cable locks, which are similar to bike locks. The cable locks loop around both ends of the kayak so they can't be taken off without unlocking them. The middle section can then loop through a secure part of your car rack. Locking tie-down straps simply have a locking buckle so that the strap cannot be loosened when locked.

Some kayakers have used a car club across the widest part of the cockpit of the kayak. This makes it difficult for anyone to sit in the kayak, while providing a place to secure a cable.

It may be more difficult to securely leave your kayak at a beach or other landing spot, since there may be nothing to tie it to. If you have gear in your kayak, you could try using a backpack security mesh to lock up drybags or possibly cover the cockpit of your kayak completely, so that no one can sit in it or take anything out. Another good practice is to take your paddle with you whenever you leave your kayak unattended. This makes it more difficult for a would-be thief to simply get in your kayak and paddle away.

But even with all of these security measures available, the most determined thief will be able to steal the most prudently secured kayak. In case this happens, the best information to have is the kayak's hull identification number. This is a number that can be used to positively identify the kayak in case it is recovered. Furthermore, anyone coming across the kayak (such as a potential buyer) who suspects it may be stolen can check the hull identification number with the police. This is why it is important to know the kayak's hull identification number or have it recorded and kept in a safe place. The hull identification number can usually be found engraved, stamped, or printed on the hull - look for the long string of letters and numbers.

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HOW TO STORE YOUR KAYAK FOR WINTER PROPERLY

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

Day-4 more hours

Well, I have sanded the deck and removed it from the hull and started on the underside. The deck really turned out nice. I wish I had taken as long on the hull in sanding out all the drip marks. It does show. Well, I learned for the next boat.

I epoxied all the seams under the deck and filled the area around the rear of the cockpit. Will let that cure and then do the tape and reinforcing glass around the kayak cockpit areas. That will have to wait for another day.

Day 22-23 - 5 more hours

After some sanding, I taped the seams on the hull and put it back on the hull to cure. A very important point to remember: taping the seams epoxy will leak out the wire holes onto your work surface. If you don't clean it up before you place your hull back on the surface, you will epoxy your hull to the work surface. I have a small remnant of my work surface to sand off my hull before I am done. Luckily the hull's surface is tougher than the top of my work table.

Glassed the cockpit area, added the additional glass at the rear of the cockpit and 6 oz. tape at the front and finished with a saturation coat. One more saturation coat after this cures and I am done for the week time to go kayaking.

Day 24-25 -3 more hours

Set up the forms for the adjustable thigh braces. Applied my fillets on the outside edges of the forms. Also applied the epoxy to the stems with their support fillets. I had some difficulty with this. It is difficult to approximate just how much wood flour to use and in the stern edge, being as narrow as it is, I used much too much epoxy and it slowly ran down the keel and I have a lump to contend with. No one will ever see it but me so I have chosen to forget it.

Day 26 - 2 more hours

Couldn't work at all on the 16th. Record heat here, over 100 degrees; too hot in my garage. I do have a suggestion for those of you that have similar temperature problems (it has been over 90 for the last week). To allow me to use the epoxy I have been placing my jugs into an aluminum tray filled with ice water. It has really given me very good working time.

Finished the thigh brace areas by glassing the 4 layers of tape over the forms. I had put all the raised edges on the glass tape to the sheer edge of the deck and had some difficulty in getting them to lay flat. To try to smooth them out I placed a sheet of Mylar over the edge and using a shim to apply pressure to the edge, without actually covering them, I clamped them down. Will see how it worked tomorrow.



A General Note: I dry fitted my bulkheads into the hull tonight and I was amazed how perfectly they fit. Then I tried them on the underside of the deck, which has had fillet places about the recess plate, glass reinforcement about the cockpit area and tape reinforcement on the forward deck, and they don't fit anymore. I will have to, which the manual does state, trim them to fit. If anyone has a suggestion as to how to do this correctly the first time, I would be very happy to hear it. Credit will be given (if it works).

Days 27-28 - 4 more hours

Removed the forms for the adjustable thigh pads. It looks OK. I think I would just skip this step if I knew exactly where I wanted them and just epoxy them in place.

I am very unhappy with the fillets at the bow and stern. It is so hard to judge the amount of wood flour to allow the epoxy to sag and not run. My epoxy keeps running out of the area so I gave up and set my hull about a 30 degree angle and poured it in. It worked finally.

Prepped the hull for the glass reinforcement at the center seam. Installed the glass and applied the saturation coat to the inside of the hull. Finally, I can take the rest of the weekend off and go kayaking. See you next week.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

How to Store Your Kayak For Winter Properly

By Shannon Clark

If you're someone who is just getting started with kayaking, it's important that you take the time to learn how to store your kayak for winter. Winter storage is something many people miss out on and then when they go to pick their kayak back up for a kayak trip in the spring, they find out it doesn't look or function the same.

Here are the main things you must know in order to store it properly.

Clean The Outer Side Thoroughly

The first thing you should be doing is making sure you wash the entire kayak down with a hose first. This will clean off any dirt, salt, or other substances that might have gotten onto it during the summer runs.

A typical garden hose will work perfectly for this - just be sure you are cleaning all sides as best as you can.

Don't Neglect The Inner Portion

Once you're finished cleaning the outside, then your next step is to also clean the inside out as well. Usually water will get into the kayak as you're running the waves and if the salt sits there over winter it could weaken the boat.

Don't forget to clean in and around the handles as well - every area needs to be washed with clean water.

Stand It At An Angle

After you've finished watering it down, then the next thing to do will be to stand it upright at an angle. This will allow all the water to run off it and then when you store it, if it happens to rain or snow (if you're storing it outside), the water there will also run off it.

You never want to let water sit in your kayak and accumulate when you store it over the winter.

Add A Cover

Finally, if you're planning on storing it outside and the area you're thinking about does get a fair amount of sunlight, then you should also cover it with some form of tarp or other material.

This will be important to protect it from UV rays, which can really damage your boat.

So keep these tips in mind to store your kayak over winter. If you do them immediately after you finish your last trip, then you know you will be able to pick your kayak up again next year in the similar condition you left it.

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Camillus Kayak Shop New York

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 20 -3 more hours

I had forgotten that when you first coat or varnish a raw wood surface, you usually raise all the grain. Well, that's just what the epoxy did, it raised all the grain. After some scraping with the cabinet scraper and some 150 grit paper, I was ready for glass. It wasn't too bad. Some concerns at the stern, and I did use some clamps to secure the fabric initially. One thing I did at the stern you don't want to do. I secured the flaps of glass at the stern with tape so they wouldn't move. Having never worked with glass I didn't realize just how much of a problem it is to get the tape off the glass. It was not pretty. Don't do that.

It was really helpful to have my photographer, Anne, mixing epoxy for me during the glass installation. Saved much time and made it much easier. Next thing to do is to laminate the keel tape and apply the fill coats. Not much to photograph there. See you next week.

Day 18-19 -2 more hours

Laminated the keel tape and applied the two fill coats. Not that difficult although the 6 oz. tape takes a lot of epoxy to wet out properly. It has been quite warm here so I have been placing my epoxy and hardener into a sink of cold water prior to usage and it works very well. As the manual says, the tape does have quite a pronounced edge on one side. Also noted the overlap at the stern. I will see just how well they smooth out later.

Day 20-21 -7 more hours

The overlap at the stern cleaned up good! Assembled the deck on the hull. This was exciting. I can finally see the kayak. I ran into something that the manual didn't cover. It says to wire the fore and aft decks so the wire twists are on the outside, but it doesn't say how. On the fore deck you can reach two of the three joints but when you add the other panel #5, you have a box with no opening! I solved it by releasing the tape from the bow so it could flex up and installing the wires just enough so I could bend over the ends. After all were installed, I pulled the wires up and was able to twist them snugly. The first application of epoxy is applied to the joints. Tomorrow if it's cool enough I will apply thickened epoxy to smooth out the joints.

Day 22 - 1.5 more hours

Mixed up some epoxy with wood flour to fill my seams. Not too bad. I did locate a potential problem. The manual states to cover the frames with tape and insert a piece of Mylar between the bow and stern so they don't get glued to the hull. On the 4PD model there is one other area on each side where you must take precaution as well. The very narrow section of panel #5 is so close to the hull, if there is any gap between the panel and the cockpit lip (this is an area where it is difficult not to have a gap), there will be leakage. Epoxy will run down the inside and bond the panel to the hull on the inside. I was able to separate the two by carefully inserting a razor knife and tapping it with a hammer. It popped apart neatly.

Tomorrow is another 96 degree day so I will let the epoxy cure.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

What to Pack When Taking Your Kids Kayaking

Kayaking can be a wonderful way for the whole family to get out of the house, away from electronic devices and into the big outdoors, breathing in the fresh air while spending quality time together. Paddling across a smooth body of water and enjoying the day while getting in some exercise is one of those fun family activity holidays that are sure to build memories that will last a lifetime. Including kids of all ages in a kayaking adventure can be easy and stress-free with a little advance planning, ensuring your trip runs smoothly and is fun for everyone!

Safety First

To start, make sure you all are equipped with Personal Flotation Devices (life jackets) for each member that fit nice and snug. Wear them from day one and your kids will never question having to wear them again. If your life jacket does not come equipped with a whistle, purchase and attach to each jacket, instructing your kids that whistles are for emergencies only.

Keep Dry

Assume clothing will get wet at some point during your kayaking adventure, so wear items made from quick-drying fabric or alternatively, invest in dry tops, pants or wetsuits specifically made for water sports. Store your shore clothing in waterproof dry bags – these are also good for storing food as the odours are contained and you won’t risk attracting nosy bears or other wildlife.

Sunshine & Bugs

Protect your kids from mosquitos and sunburn by packing and applying bug spray and a high SPF sunblock. Another option is to outfit them in long-sleeved bug shirts that will do double duty. A wide-rimmed hat with chin strap is also ideal to protect kids from the heat of the sun. Pack some rainwear, a must for any family activity holidays, in the event the weather turns before heading out onto the water.

Accessories

Proper sunglasses are essential for eye health and comfort when the sun’s rays are reflecting off the surface of the water, so make certain each person has a pair (and wears them!). Bring along binoculars for the kids to use during your kayak expedition and ask them to share any wildlife sightings with the rest of the family. Give one child a compass and allow him or her to guide the kayak or group.

Keep Hunger at Bay

Packing a wide assortment of healthy snacks in a number of small plastic bags or waterproof containers will fare well and will keep kids young and old satisfied. Family activity holidays require easy-to-pack, healthy snacks such as fresh apple pieces and grapes, dried apricots and dates, and biscuits. Mixing in some healthy snacks that are higher in fat, such as cheese, pine nuts and macadamia nuts will keep your kids feeling satisfied longer. Take double the amount of snacks you think will be sufficient in order to ensure you have enough for the trip.

Capture the Moment

Lastly, don’t forget the camera! Ensure your special moments together are captured and protect your camera by using a waterproof camera pouch that does not need to be removed to use. Store in your dry bags for extra protection in between uses.

Kayaking with your kids can be the perfect family activity. Holidays spent together on the water will be sure to float your spirits as much as your kayak, as you bring the family together to do something fun and active together. It will no doubt lay the foundation for future trips your children will be sure to look forward to.

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Richard Edwards is the Managing Director of Summit & Blue, an adventure holiday company offering independently crafted family activity holidays to exciting destinations around the world, including France, Italy, Portugal, the USA and Canada. With unique itineraries and exciting activities like biking, hiking, white water rafting and canoeing, we create holidays for those looking for an experience a little more off the beaten track.

Kayaking Accessories

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 16 - 2 more hours

Finished the initial sanding tonight (I thought). After I got my leaf blower out and cleaned everything up, some more sanding will be required. I still have to fix those few seams that didn't get enough epoxy to fill them anyways. SO, not remembering what the "Epoxy Manual" said about hot days (it was 96 here today), I mixed a small batch, filled my syringe, and proceeded to fill the few gaps I have left. About 1/3 of the syringe later, it was so hot I couldn't hold it. I did get filled what I needed, I hope; but I think I will wait a few days till this heat wave is over. I removed the balance of the epoxy from the syringe with a screwdriver.

I also must acknowledge my photographer. She has threatened to quit if I don't.

Photos by Anne S.

Day 17 - 1 more hour

Today I had to tackle a messy project. Both seams at the bow and stern need a fillet of epoxy, stiffened to the consistency of cake frosting. This allows the hull to be formed to the rounded shape at these joints without removing wood from the hull. The manual recommends that you fill the dental syringe and apply to both areas. The videos I have watched of this are tedious. It's like squirting toothpaste out of an eye dropper. Since it is the consistency of cake frosting, I went to a kitchen supply center and bought a cake decorating nozzle. I cut it to produce the correct size fillet, attached it to a plastic bag filled with epoxy and applied. It worked great and quickly. Tomorrow when I start to shape it into the correct dimensions I will find out how well it worked.

Day 18 - 1.5 more hours

I sanded my fillets tonight and they came out pretty good. Did some more general sanding around the hull and my next step is the saturation coat of epoxy. This is a little scary with my experience level. Did I get the surface smooth enough? Will the small areas I haven't completely filled with epoxy create serious air pockets? We will find out tomorrow. Anyway, I can’t put it off any longer. We will see....

Day 19 - 1.5 more hours

Completed the saturation coat of epoxy and smoothed out all my bubbles. Now I wait until tomorrow and see the results. I really wish I knew what I was doing here. It didn't come out exactly as I thought it would. Of course, I don't know how it is supposed to come out in the first place. Don't you just love to do something for the first time; especially when you just spent a whole bunch of money on it and really hope it works out right.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

The Adventure of Kayaking

By Larry S. Kang

Nature has always surprised man with its bountiful abundance of beauty and strength. The mighty seas and the long rivers, twisting and turning, and the fierce rapids have always been intimidating. However, there are those adventurers that master the waters through various means, and kayaking is one of these. In one style of kayak, the paddler faces forward with their legs in front of them underneath a deck, and uses a double bladed paddle. Another style is the sit on top kayak. Most kayaks have a long front and rear deck and differ according to the type of water they are designed for. Ocean or sea kayaking is often done in the open sea, while whitewater kayaking is kayaking down the river rapids.

Kayaking adventures come in various different forms throughout the world. Kayaking enthusiasts commonly engage in whale watching, for example. Getting a glimpse of a gray whale or a humpback whale can be a memorable lifetime experience. Some kayakers have even had the opportunity to go kayaking alongside orcas, or killer whales. In a kayak, you can explore the extraordinary wilderness of the ocean in its fullest beauty. Having your own kayaking adventure increases awareness about the environment, the ecosystem and the need to preserve it.

Kayaking lets you discover and enjoy the enchantment and wonder of the beautiful waters and unmatched skies. Outstanding scenery and wildlife are added attractions which kayaking offers and acts as a total stress reliever. In addition to sea kayaking, kayaking adventures can also include lake kayaking and river rafting excursions. It is not necessary to have some prior experience in kayaking as guides who value safety and training as top priorities are available to cater to small groups of kayaking enthusiasts.

Thousands of plants, hundreds of different birds, and pristine waterways await you when you set out on a kayaking expedition. Like in every other sport, there is equipment that no paddler should be without. The primary equipment obviously is the kayak. The type of kayak largely depends on the size of the water body you plan to go kayaking in. For example, whitewater kayaks are much different from sea kayaks. The kayak you choose depends on what type of paddling you prefer, whether whitewater, lake, or ocean.

The next essential piece of equipment is the paddle. There are different types of paddles for different types of kayaking. A little research online or at an outdoor equipment store can help you choose the right paddle for your kayak. Also needed will be a life jacket, or personal flotation device, for every kayaker. Helmets are also required for whitewater kayaking. So, if you intend to go whitewater kayaking, you should definitely include a helmet on your shopping list.

Now that you have a fair idea of the abundant fun kayaking offers and the necessary equipment for this activity, pack your bags, set out on your kayaking expedition, and most of all enjoy! And, please remember to pack all your safety gear such as your life jacket or personal flotation device to ensure safe kayaking adventures!

Larry Kang is a writer on outdoor recreation topics such as hiking, kayaking, and nature photography. Learn more about kayaking trips [http://www.kayaksandkayaking.com] at Kayaks and Kayaking - Kayaking Trips .

Note: If you find this article useful, feel free to republish it on your website, e-zine, or newsletter as long as the credits above remain intact and the hyperlinks stay active.

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"The most important things are length, width and weight," Kitt says. "You have to get the right boat for the right job. The main difference is distance. You have to determine how far you want to paddle. A longer boat goes farther with less effort".

5 Things People Do Wrong When Buying a Kayak

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 10-11 - 7 more hours

I cut one roll of wire (3 come with the kit) into 3.5 in lengths and made ½ in. staples per the instructions. There is a reason for this. The panels are held together with the staples but the internal forms/supports need longer wires. If you cut them all you will need to buy more wire. I did use about 1½ spools for the hull staples. Half a spool was used on the forms/supports and I have one left for the deck. My work table is now in its prime. It is the perfect height and size for wiring the hull. The 2' width is great for working one side and then the other. Once I got started it was hard to stop. This is the most rewarding part of the project to date. You just watch the hull come together.

I must comment on the fit of the components. Pygmy does a tremendous job of cutting the panels to the exact shape. Everything fits. A couple of forms/supports to install in the bow and stern and on to the next step.

Another comment; the instructions say to place some cardboard boxes under the first panels you wire to raise them off the surface. I used plastic flower pots and it worked even better.

Days 12 - 3 more hours

Finished wiring the hull. Added the spacers to the forms so the hull could be inverted. Tightened all the wires. Remember I said that it was so great to see the hull finally come together? That was before I started tightening all the wires. What a tedious job!

Gluing the joints comes next. I am really pleased as to how straight the lines came out. I do have a suggestion when tightening the wires. I used a linesman's pliers. They are a little heavier than most and make a very nice hammer (please tap gently) in repositioning the panels as you tighten the wires.

Days 12-13 - 5 more hours

Took a few days off to go camping with my kayak club. Starting gluing the hull, first day did the general overview and the second went back, propping the hull up so I could get the vertical edges. A bit messy project. I don't see any other way to get it done. I anticipate a bunch of sanding prior to glassing. Getting the correct consistency with the wood flour takes some experimenting. It's handy to actually go look at honey before you try to make the epoxy look the consistency of it.

Day 14 - 2 more hours

Removed the wires tonight. Hot glued the supports and everything stayed together. Wow. I had tried not to use epoxy near the wires. There are too many examples on "You Tube" where the wires get permanently epoxied to the boat. I have some gaps to fill but all the wires came out good. Nothing worthy of a photo today.

Day 15 - 2 more hours

Started sanding the hull. It is really hard to imagine how much epoxy drips down the side of your work, no matter how careful you are. The instructions say to file the bow and stern clean, well that is an understatement as to what really needs to be done. I tried just about everything and finally got out the orbital sander with 60 grit paper and went to work. It's working! Probably got about 2/3 to ¾ of the hull darn smooth. I am really surprised how much epoxy had worked itself under the wires. I don't think I will have much to fill in later. Tomorrow I will try to finish sanding the hull.

How to Store Your Paddleboard at Home

By Kate E Gallagher

Stand up paddleboards are used for a surface water sport called paddleboarding. Paddleboarders stand on them and move around the ocean, a lake or a river by use of paddles. They look like surfboards but they are bigger. Due to their big sizes, it becomes hard to store them especially for people with limited spaces in their homes. These are some tips which will help you store your stand up paddleboard securely if you have a limited space in your home.

Use Inflatable Paddleboards

Storage of an inflatable paddleboard can be easy and space saving. After paddleboarding, you need to deflate, roll and place it in a compact storage bag. This bag can then be stored in a shelf, closet, cabinet or even in the trunk of your car. The paddleboard should be cleaned and dried up before storage. This may be a tiresome process as you have to inflate it again before going for paddleboarding but it's very easy to store it especially if you have a limited space in your home.

Use of Paddleboard Racks

You can also install paddleboard racks it the walls of your garage or even house where you can suspend your stand up paddleboard. They have hooks which hold the boards in position and are very easy to install. They will help you utilize the limited space in your home efficiently as you will suspend the paddleboard firmly in the walls of your garage which are usually free. Some racks are very beautiful when fixed at the walls of a house hence can be used as decorative elements as they hold the paddleboards. Hanging the paddleboard on walls is a highly recommended storage method as it keeps them dry which makes them durable.

Build Your Own Rack

A couple of people will custom build their own paddleboard storage areas in their home or backyards. A paddleboard lift can be installed in the ceiling rafters of a garage or attic, so the board lays flat, but it is still safely still out of the way. Others will take to their back yard and get a few pieces of weather treated wood and a tarp and construct their own little paddleboard shelving system. These keep the boards out of the house, where there may be very little space, but still ensures they are not just sitting on the ground outside exposed to the elements.

Any of these methods should be able to give you some good ideas as to where to store your paddleboard at home, especially if you are limited on space.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Kate_E_Gallagher/1578088


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ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 6 - 1.5 more hours

Did the second glassing on the current sections. I see the benefits of doing the inside of the panels first. No matter how much weight you place on top of the joint, there tends to be one end or side that ends up slightly. This may leave a blemish in the surface. By doing the inside first you can sand the outside perfectly flat and hence a perfect surface. One more set of panels and the cockpit circle and I can start wiring. Can’t wait!

Also found out what a Murrelet is. It is a smaller Northwestern coastal sea bird related to the auk and puffin. It is also listed as endangered. I am looking for a neat decal to put on my deck that would relate to the murrelet. If anyone has an idea I would love to hear from you. To send ideas, go to the "Submit Article" tab in the left column of our website. Golf tomorrow - no working on boat.

Day 7 -2 More Hours

I have finished combining the individual strips into the 6 (12) panels for assembly. Slight imperfections in the surfaces bother me and I am going to try to lightly sand them smooth before I proceed. Have to make my drilling jig yet. Drilling the initial holes for assemble should take several days. I hope to start wiring the hull together by the weekend.

Day 8 - 3 more hours

All my joints are done and I must admit I don't like them all. I didn't use enough epoxy on the edges to eliminate all the bubbles, especially on the first joints completed. I have feathered them back a bit and only hope the glass coat will cover. The instructions did say to apply adequate amounts of epoxy. It would also have helped if I had cleaned the Mylar sheets used to cover and flatten the joints a little better between usages. Remember, one of the reasons I am writing these reports is so you don't have to repeat my mistakes. (I really hate those project reports were everything goes perfectly anyways.)

The edges at the sheerline are beveled and my drilling jig is made. Tomorrow I start drilling holes for the wires. I did notice that the stern section of one panel is at a slightly different angle. I do hope is doesn't create an alignment problem later. Everything else is really very well aligned. I contacted Pygmy on the panels and they advised that they should work fine. Nice customer support.

Days 8-9 - 4 more hours

Made my drilling jig and got all the holes drilled. You do need to follow the instructions. Get them on the correct sides of the panels and don't forget the ends. I used a small electric screwdriver as a drill. Much lighter and with the " allen head" drive, the bit slips out easily and makes using the jig as a holding device great. Also, use lots of clamps to hold the pieces securely. I am taking the weekend off. The next step is bending my wires into staples.

BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Over the next few weeks you will be able to follow Roger as he finishes his new kayak from the ground up with reports weekly and pictures of his progress as the building unfolds. If you are planning a project like this, you will gain insight about the process. So stay tuned.



I have put off, for every possible excuse, my desire to build my own kayak for years. I finally realized that if I continued putting it off, I will never do it. Seeing the review in Sea Kayaker Magazine on the Pygmy Murrelet convinced me that today was a great day to start. So I ordered it.

The biggest concern I had was Fiberglass and Epoxy. I have never worked with these. Second is where to build it. I decided my car was going to spend the summer in the driveway and Epoxy and I were going to learn to be good friends.

There are going be challenges. My garage is 80 years old with the typical 80 years old concrete floor. Dirt would be more level. I will need to add lighting. I need a work surface. I will also have get over my fear of Fiberglass and epoxy.

Over the summer, I will attempt to document my adventures. Hopefully I can point out the problems I have, so you don’t have to repeat them, and show my successes.

Day 1 - 2 Hours

This being my first project of this type, I had read the manuals multiple times. I thought I was ready to start, but since the "Epoxy Manual" had said to practice on some scrap material before starting, I followed those instructions. Wow, I didn’t have anything ready. What an eye opener that was.

Starting over with the real thing, I had my weights cleaned, 2x4's and Mylar cut, all the sets of boards grouped, fiberglass strips measured and cut and finally I thought I was ready to start. My next problem was about to begin.

I am limited as to how much space I had to build the project. To give myself the flattest and most level surface to work on, I took a ¾ inch sheet of plywood, split it down the middle and made a 2' x 16' work surface. Using shims and a good level I succeeded in getting it perfect. Problem is it is too small to join only but a couple of lengths at one time. Using 1 pump of each of the epoxy and hardener, I am left with epoxy that I have no place to use. I will have to mark the pumps in some way that I can reduce my waste.

None the less, I tacked my boards to the surface, aligned my edges and made my first glass joints. Tomorrow I find out how I did. To be continued……..

Day 3 - 2 Hours

Well I have learned that it is very difficult to reduce the amount of Epoxy. Without a full stroke, you don't get the proper mix. Doing the second side of the first panels turned into a mess. It never hardened. Back to full strokes.

Now working on the second set of boards. Photo below shows the width of my work surface. Would be nice to have a nice flat garage floor allow me to do all the boards a once, but don't have that.

Solved another problem. What to do with the panels when I have finished them. I removed one of my boats from the storage rack and put an extension ladder in its place. Works great. To be continued…..

Day 5 - 2.5 More Hours

Three Sections (6 pieces) are now joined. I did the first coat of glass on two more sections tonight; one to go. This portion of the build has taken more nights than I wish but I can't complain too much. Trying to complete them all at one time would be a lot of hustling and may have led to more errors.

A note on materials: The manuals state that epoxy will not adhere to plastics bags. They are used under the panels to keep them from being epoxied to the work surface. This is true, but epoxy does adhere to the ink on the bags. This is not good. I am using waxed paper now. It works very clean and is much easier to use than plastic.