Top 10 Things to Consider When Buying a Kayak for Fishing

By Thomas P Fouts

There are many different kinds of kayaks on the market today. So many, that it can be a daunting task to find the "perfect" model for your specific needs. So here are 10 areas of thought when considering buying a kayak for fishing.

1. Your physical being, your physical condition, and your attitude - First of all, you need to be able to fit comfortably in the kayak seating both in width and legroom. Then consider your weight. Because how you are built, and what physical shape you are in, can determine whether you buy a kayak with a motor, pedals, or just a paddle for propelling your kayak. How do you want to get from one fishing spot and back again?


2. Sit-On-Top, (SOT) or Sit-In-Kayak, (SIK)? - This is a personal choice. The traditional kayak is a "sit in" kayak. This is where you sit inside the kayak. A sit on top kayak is where you sit on what is like a formed tube that lets water drain through holes called scuppers. The SOT is what, in my opinion, works best for kayak fishing. Look at both, and talk to experts, do the research; find out what is comfortable for you.


3. Stability - There are two kinds of stability. One is the initial stability, which is how "wobbly" it is on the water. The second factor of stability (and this is the important one) is how far a kayak can lean or tip before it sends you overboard. It is all in the design of the hull.


4. Maneuverability - You need a kayak that responds and handles well. The rocker (or camber) which is the "curve" from the front to the back of the hull will determine how easily it handles, along with the length and width of the boat. The shorter the kayak and the more rocker, the quicker it responds, but may also sacrifice stability. The longer and "less" rocker of the hull, the more speed and sea-worthiness of the boat.


5. Weight - If the kayak is too heavy to lug around, and getting it off and on your vehicle, you probably won't use it as much. Plus, if you have to portage around obstacles it can be a real energy drain.


6. Maximum Weight Capacity - You also want to take into consideration your weight and the weight of your gear. The maker of the kayak will have maximum weight capacities listed. Stay well below them or you can become a barge.


7. Speed of Kayak - This is a personal choice. A stable, shorter, wide kayak will be slower and a longer and narrower kayak will be faster. A wider kayak can take a lot more energy and time to get to a fishing spot, and when paddling against a strong wind can be difficult. Where a longer narrow kayak slices through the water and wind easier, it can be a real trick to fish comfortably from. So a balance between the two styles seems to be an all-around safe choice.


8. Length - As mentioned above, the longer the kayak, the faster and more sea worthy it is. So you need to decide what types of water conditions you will be paddling in. Short kayaks (under 11') are great for protected waters, or rivers, and longer kayaks, (13'-more than 14') are probably better in lakes bays and oceans.


9. Seating/Comfort - This is a biggie. If you are not comfortable you won't stay out long. You will most likely be sitting for long lengths of time, so choose your seat wisely. Spend the extra bucks to get this right, as it can be the difference in a great time or not. Also consider how it supports your legs and whether or not it has drainage holes.


10. Accessories - Not all kayaks are built to accessorize conveniently. Think about what you want to outfit your boat with and see if modifications can be made. One thing is storage for your fishing gear. Can you outfit storage areas that can be easily accessible from the seat? Do you need to haul a cart? Storage is a question you should try to answer when picking your kayak.

All kayaks need to be stored somewhere when you are not using them. So consider how big your storage area is as well as the length of your boat. You will also need a way to secure your kayak to the vehicle for transporting it to the water. Racks, trailer, or just throwing it in the back of a pickup, it still needs to be secured for safe travel.

So there you have my 10 things to consider when buying a kayak for fishing. Not everything is covered here, but it will give you a place to start. Talk to the experts. See what others are using with success and what the fishermen say could be improved.

Use good judgment on the water, be safe, and have a great time kayak fishing!

My two favorite sports combined! What could be better? I have been kayaking since 1978 when I bought a 13 year old Klepper kayak. I kayaked 43 different rivers, in 5 different states, and in Canada that first year!

Then when you combine fishing with kayaking, it is so peaceful and invigorating at the same time. I have had several different kayaks and have introduced dozens of people to the sport since that first year.

Thomas Fouts

Author of "The BetesBuster Plan"

A Step-by Step Guide to Preventing, Controlling, or Reversing Type 2 Diabetes

http://betesbuster.com

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KAYAK FISHING – LEARNING THE ESSENTIALS
5 THINGS TO LOOK FOR BEFORE BUYING A FISHING KAYAK

Kayaking Footwear

Kayaking footwear comes in several different designs, to keep your feet safe and, in some cases, warm.

Kayaking will obviously not require the same type of footwear that you would wear to the store or on the street. However, since you will not always be in the kayak (eventually you're going to have to come back to land and get out of it), you'll probably want to have some sort of shoes just in case you have to come back to a rougher part of the beach. You don't want to hurt your feet just because you have been in a kayak.

Something to keep in mind about regular shoes, of course, is that they tend to be fairly heavy. Therefore, if you end up using a regular pair of shoes, you will probably be adding unnecessary weight to your feet. Part of the reason that you're adding extra weight is that regular shoes do not repel water in the same way that water footwear would. The other down side do this is that your regular shoes will also not dry out very quickly at all. In fact, you'll probably be stuck with wet shoes for a long time after you finally get done kayaking.

The best type of footwear for kayaking is more like a slipper. These shoes might not be waterproof, but if you are in water that is too cold for your feet, you should probably look into getting a dry suit that covers your feet as well.

The nice thing about these slipper shoes is that as soon as you step out of the water, most of it will drain away. The result is that you are left with damp but not too soggy shoes which will probably dry out fairly quickly. The other thing that you get with this footwear instead of going barefoot is that you'll know that your feet are being protected each time you step on the bottom - and considering that you can never be quite sure what is just under the sand, this is probably a good thing.

However, if the slipper footwear is not right for you, several other companies offer sandals that might suit your needs as well. While sandals will not close over your feet in the same way, they will still be able to protect your feet from anything that happens to be under the sand.

You can also purchase socks for kayaking which will keep your feet warm.

Article Tags:
Kayaking Footwear, Regular Shoes

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.kayakhelp.com. Please visit his complete kayaking guide for all skills and ages.

CHOOSING THE PROPER KAYAKING ACCESSORIES

FOUR THINGS A KAYAKER SHOULD HAVE ON BOARD

Types of Kayaks

By Peter Gitundu

You'll agree with me every sport requires a gear designed for it. This is no exception with kayaking. However, there are many different types of kayaks available in the market today and makes it hard for you to choose the right one. Just take a moment and read on for some helpful tips on basic things you ought to know about kayaks.

Their origin is traced to be Eskimos from green land and Alaska. They are basically small boats with a similar structure as a canoe. Their main difference with canoes is that paddlers legs are hidden inside, they've pointed bows and sterns and they're fully covered except for the cock pit.

In the past, they could only accommodate one paddler but today's there are different types that accommodates one to four paddlers at a go. Kayaks are classified into three categories depending on their structure i.e. rigid, folding and inflatable. Rigid are made of fiberglass, plastic, wood or Kevlar. Plastic ones are tough and long lasting while fiberglass are light weight.

If you want a portable one and easy to store, folding ones caters for this though you have to dig deeper in your pocket. However, the price is worth it. They are made of aluminum or wood. Inflatable on the other hand are easy to carry, they are made up of PVC so all you need to do is put pressure with help of a pump and you are good to go kayaking. They are mostly suitable for calm waters and rivers. One thing to note is that paddling one require more effort and are a bit slower. But worry not, the thrill and experience is amazing.

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KAYAK BUYING CHOICES

THE ADVENTURE OF KAYAKING

Kayak Buying Choices

By F Gual

Before looking for a new kayak, you must consider how you intend to use it. And before that, you have to shop for all the essential equipment you must have.

Choosing the right kayak can be a difficult ordeal. Several factors must be considered before starting a search. Some simple steps will make the search easier.

First, decide what it will be used for. Is this all new to you? Do you plan to enter competitions? This will guide you when exploring all the different designs on the market. An online search will reveal hundreds of choices, and narrowing your choices will take time. Hurrying through this step could bring buyer's remorse.

But before that happens, you must get all the equipment you will need for safe and enjoyable kayaking. Wetsuit, life jacket, paddle, footwear, and more will be essential, so go for quality here.

Thinking of your kayak as an investment is the way to go. A quality kayak need not be expensive, but lots of research is needed to get the most for your money.

Famous top brands include Clear Blue Hawaii, Old Town, Coleman, Pelican International. The popular Hobie has a line of simple, durable boats. Sevylor has been making tough inflatable kayaks for years. Emotion makes plastic kayaks as small as eight feet, ideal if space is a problem. Folding kayaks have been made in Germany by the Klepper company since the fifties. Their wooden frame covered by a waterproof synthetic skin can be assembled quickly once you know how.

If you have never been on a kayak, it would be wise to rent one, even if only for a day. Learning how to get in and out of the kayak safely may take several attempts to get it right. Plus learning how to hold your paddle through the strokes also takes some trying.

Many people of all ages have become addicted to gliding through the water. Why not you?

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5 THINGS PEOPLE DO WRONG WHEN BUYING A KAYAK

Photo by James Coleman on Unsplash

Four Things a Kayaker Should Have On Board

By Michael W Gibson

Kayaking is a fun and simple activity that can keep you close to nature. It is also a great way to get a workout. Like other forms of wilderness travel, kayaking requires a certain amount of preparedness.

Part of this preparedness is knowing what to take with you.

Aside from water, food and your life jacket (state law), four items you might want to consider carrying along on your kayak excursion include:

GPS

If you're paddling down rivers or on small lakes, you may not need a GPS. However, if you're on a large body of water and planning on paddling over the visible horizon, GPS is a requirement. GPS units are also great for swampy areas where you're buried under a canopy of cypress and tupelo.

Waterproof Containers

There's always a need to keep the dry stuff dry when you're out on the water. Cell phones, cameras and many other items don't mix well with water. Waterproof containers are a must when kayaking. They come in all shapes and sizes, from flexible rubber deck bags to hard plastic cases sealed with o-rings.

Anchor

Although it may sound absurd, they do make tiny anchors specifically for kayaks, and they can come in really handy. When you've paddled hard for hours against the current or wind, it's nice to be able to drop anchor and take a break without worrying about drifting back the way you came.

Towel

Just because you don't capsize doesn't mean you won't get wet. On a windy day, the spray alone is enough to leave you damp at best and drenched at worst. Don't forget to bring a towel along. You can store it in one of your waterproof containers.

A kayak trip is so much better when you know what to bring along. Anticipate what you want to do, what could happen, and pack accordingly. Having the right gear can mean the difference between an exhilarating experience and pure misery.

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Choosing the Proper Kayaking Accessories

Paddle Board Fishing

By Jonathan Gafill

Paddling along the shallows you can see the shadow of the board gliding across the sandy lake bottom. It's not uncommon to see a fish cruising along close to you... so why not seize the moment and cast a line out.

I've found that the stand up paddle board can be an excellent fishing platform. Where I live, we have hundreds of inland lakes around that are great for exploring and fishing. Some of the great fishing spots aren't even accessible from a boat, but with a paddleboard you can scoot right up on a fishing hole without even being noticed. With the high vantage point of stand up paddle boards, you can see the fish about as far away as you can cast. It's nearly a perfect situation.

Here is my typical paddleboard fishing excursion. For this example let's assume we're fishing for Bass. First I'd scope out the satellite layout of the lake on Google Maps. You'd be surprised how many times features of the lake will go un-noticed. Look for dark spots that resemble "holes", or spots that look like steep drop offs around the edge of the lake. You'll also want to take into consideration the time of day that you're planning on fishing. Early morning and late evening are the best times to catch the fish.

When getting ready to go out on the lake, grab a backpack that has an external side pocket for drinks -most do have these. Test fit your fishing pole in this little pouch... You might need to make some small modifications to get it to stay in while paddling. Then put your lures, tackle, and anything else you plan to fish with in the bag.

When you get to the lake, scope out the wind direction. The wind tends to blow the warm top water to one side of the lake... in my experiences; the fish tend to stay in the cooler water. So paddle out to a spot that looks like it might have some fish. Weed beds or underwater debris can be a good place to start.

Reach behind your head and grab the fishing pole. Get yourself steady, and cast. You may have to repeat that process a few times, but with a little skill and a lot of luck, you'll hook a fish.

This is the fun part... the fish will start pulling back. Sometimes, if you've got a decent fish on the end of the line, he'll actually pull you around a little bit. -Really fun.

Good luck... and keep paddling!

Learn more about Paddle Board Fishing [http://www.burley-paddleboarding.com].

Visit Burley Sports [http://www.burleysports.com] for tips, tricks and videos of all your favorite water sports.

Jonathan James

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CNY paddleboards sales

Five Easy Ways to Be Miserable While Kayaking

By Larry S. Kang

Don't be misled! Kayaking can actually be a very enjoyable experience. The gentle breeze, the beautiful scenery, and the fascinating wildlife all make kayaking the perfect escape from your boring desk job. But just in case you don't think life is hard enough, here are five simple ways to make even a fun activity like kayaking into a horrible and painful experience.

1. Don't check tides

Who cares what the moon does? And the sun too, for that matter. Ignore the tide charts and you may be surprised at how strongly the water pulls you to exactly where you don't want to go. In addition, when the tide falls, you may end up with your kayak stuck in mud while you decide whether you want to drag it out while slogging knee-deep through the muck or just abandon it completely. You might be better off ignoring the tides if you are going kayaking in open waters, but if you are paddling in sloughs or near straits, ignoring the tides and tidal currents is a quick path to kayaking misery.

2. Dress inappropriately

However careful you are when paddling, you will get wet. Therefore, if you want to be miserable, find the heaviest and most absorbent fabric to wear, like cotton or denim. This will make sure that when you do get wet, you will also stay wet (and stay cold) for longer. You can also get that lovely clammy feeling that doesn't go away until your next hot shower.

3. Forget the weather

Kayaking in the rain, cold, or wind is another sure way to have a miserable paddling experience. While some more adventurous types will gladly go kayaking in the rain and cold, they still need to be aware of the weather and be prepared for it. Failing to check the weather forecast and come prepared for the elements can not only make you physically uncomfortable, but can also be outright dangerous. Just imagine trying to get back to shore in thick fog.

4. Lose your paddle

One of the most important pieces of equipment, aside from your kayak, is your paddle. If you want to be miserable while kayaking, just throw your paddle into the ocean! It's very simple and will be sure to make you miserable as you either try to flag someone down to help you, wait and feel guilty while a friend tows you back to shore, or frantically try to paddle back with your hands. If you really want to suffer, make sure you don't bring a spare paddle or use a paddle leash.

5. Cross in front of boats

This is likely to make you either feel hated, scared, or seriously injured, all of which fall under the broad category of "miserable". The worst outcome is that you and your kayak can get run over by whichever boat you are trying to cross in front of. Even if you don't get hit, you are likely to seriously annoy whoever is driving the boat, who will have to stop or turn quickly to avoid hitting you.

All kayakers have made their share of mistakes - but don't worry, even if you screw up at some point and have a miserable kayaking trip. As long as you survive, there is always another opportunity to have a great one.

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Pick the right boat

Tips for Kayaking With Kids

By Brandon Rome

With a little thought and planning, kayaking with children is a great way to foster a love of nature and help them develop hand-eye coordination. With kids, it's usually a good idea to choose a kid-friendly destination without a lot of boat traffic or strong currents. You may want to begin in small lakes nearby until they get a bit more experience. Here are some tips to help you plan a kayaking trip with your children, including advice about where you should go, what you should bring and when your kids are ready to paddle on their own.

What to Bring

The first thing you need to bring, of course, is your kayak! Most families can enjoy a day on the water with an inflatable kayak, which is easy to store in the trunk of the car and inflate when you get to the water. You'll also need a paddle for everyone that will be actively involved. Look for child paddles, which are usually around 200 cm long with a narrow shaft that's easier for small hands to hold. PFDs (personal floatation devices) are also necessary, so select models that are approved by the United States Coast Guard. You can find infant-sized PFDs, as well as those for children between 30 and 50 pounds and youths between 50 and 90 pounds. A word of advice here: if you plan to bring a baby, get them used to the PFD before your trip because they may refuse to wear it when you're ready to hit the water.

Along with these basics, make sure you bring along plenty of snacks and food, a change of clothing and a first aid kit. Small kids will also likely appreciate their own camera to take pictures, binoculars to spot animals, a journal, books or even a fishing pole of their own if you plan to do some kayak fishing.

Choosing the Best Spot

When you're enjoying paddle sports with your kids, try to choose areas that offer a lot of variety and great scenery to keep them engaged. You'll also want to know the area well beforehand. If possible, research state parks in your area to find great kayaking areas that are kid-friendly and include a couple of stops for bathroom breaks. You'll also need to think about the length of the trip, as younger kids won't be up for a long 6-mile paddle. Keep in mind your child's strength, coordination, age and swimming ability when you're planning your trip to make it safe and enjoyable for everyone.

When Can Your Kids Paddle?

Some kids can begin paddling their own kayak by 8 to 10 years of age, if they have the experience. You'll still want to venture into safe areas until they gain more experience. Younger kids do well with inflatable kayaks, which are lightweight and a bit slower. For kids 10 and older, select a small kayak. Kids over the age of 14 can learn to paddle medium-sized inflatable kayaks. If your child is under 8, the middle of the kayak is the best place for them to sit with an adult. They won't help to propel the boat, but they will learn how the kayak feels as it moves. By the age of 8, they can also begin riding in the bow of a double kayak to help you paddle.

Involve Your Kids in the Planning

Don't forget to involve your children in the planning of the trip as well. If your kids have never been involved in paddle sports before, let them get in the kayak at home so they can get used to how it feels. They can also help you research the trip by looking through guidebooks, animal charts and pictures online.

Additional Tips for Kayaking with Kids

Be sure to give your kids lots of praise and don't criticize their efforts unless it's a matter of safety.

Make rules clear beforehand, including no standing or leaning in the kayak.

Go slowly and don't get separated from the rest of your family.

Take plenty of breaks to enjoy the scenery and point out interesting things to your children.

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Years ago, a salesperson showed Kitt two boats that were within his limited budget. He ended up choosing the wrong one.

"I was furious," Kitt says. "I had that boat for three months before I had to get rid of it and get one more appropriate for me. I was so mad at the guy that sold it to me that I opened kayak store in CNY."

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 69 - 1 hour

I finally got the first coat of varnish on the hull thinned 25% with mineral spirts, per my painting expert. We will find out tomorrow how well that worked.

Day 64-66 - Sept 25-29- Day 71-74 - 2 ½ more hours

I couldn't do too much each day. Applied a coat of varnish each day after a little sanding. It looks pretty good although I wish I knew more about applying varnish. It is tough to get that smooth finish. The thigh pad assemblies are completed as much as I could without setting in the cockpit and finding their final position and the angles necessary for my legs.

I did find a good number of runs from the hull onto the deck. They are a real pain to sand out. I applied masking tape to the hull to try not to repeat the mistake. Hopefully I will have it water ready by next week.

Day 75-76 - 3 more hours
I have put on the last coat of varnish, installed my deck cords and straps and I am 99.9% completed. All that is left is positioning the thigh braces and foam pads. This has been a unique project. I have learned so much about the process, much of it the hard way, and am looking forward to my next project. I know where I went wrong and the boat does have the scars to prove it. This weekend it meets the water and I am certain all will go well.

As for the amount of time required, the guidelines called for 80 hours. I have almost doubled that but I did install the sliding thigh braces, bulkheads and hatches and every deck related item available. That accounts for a good portion of the extra time. The other component that took much too much time was in trying correcting my error in allowing runs and drips of epoxy run all over the boat. What I have learned there is to cover my seams and wire holes on the outside of the hull with plastic tape and glue the seams from the inside where the runs don't show.

Project complete

I have cleaned out my garage and my car is home again. New Murrelet is happy on its rack and finally we made it to the water. I am really pleased initially how it handles. It has met all my expectations. This has been a great project. The only area which I am unhappy about is the adjustable thigh braces. They do not function well, which could be partially my problem on the fabrication of the slides. In any event, they are going to be located and epoxied into place (when I figure where they should be). Would I do it again? YES! This has been a great experience and the manufacturer has been very helpful. I would recommend their kits gladly.



I used my new kayak on our club’s weekly paddle for the first time Sunday. Almost 7 miles on the canal and I am very pleased. For a boat with no rudder or skeg, it tracked beautifully. Initial stability is good and secondary stability is great. Still having problems with the adjustable thigh braces but that can be fixed. Best of all, the only water in the boat was from our boots. I am very pleased.

Choosing the Proper Kayaking Accessories

By Ernest Tang

Kayaking is an unpredictable sport as you will not be able to foresee the outcome. It is only through preparation that you are able to prevail over whatever odds that might be thrown at you. Different kayaks are built for different purposes to cope with the diverse types of sea conditions. Some are just for sightseeing while other may be for dangerous white water kayaking. When you are dealing with the trying condition of the water, a kayak with a paddle is not enough. You will need other accessories to help you survive and the first equipment you will need is the ability to transport the kayak.

You need to outfit yourself with the right kayaking accessories and clothing is crucial. Clothing has to be waterproofed and disperse all perspiration. The best type is makes of synthetic material as they are resilient. Sandals have to be waterproofed as well as a pair of gloves that will protect your hands from freezing cold in addition to avert blisters.

Kayaking is a water contact sport and can keel over without warning. You can permit a little water displacement and above that, you will put your personal safety in danger. To overcome that you can use sprayskirt that cover you fully that help to avert paddle splash in addition to keeping off rapids. As in water sport, all kayaking accessories need to be waterproof with food cooler manufacture from vinyl to keep it afloat. Add a flotation device too in case of emergency.

There are other essential kayaking accessories depending on whether you are in calm water or out at sea. In the unpredictable sea, you need survival accessories and remember to prepare yourself for any outcome, even the worst. Whatever your discretion; do not over pack as you need to be agile to cope with the treacherous conditions.

A bilge pump, a map and a compass together with paddle floats will do nicely. Irrespective of your experience, you need to carry those indispensable accessories at all time. Other additional kayaking accessories that you can bring along are baseball hat, sun visor to cut off glare and maybe some snacks such as a cereal bar or chocolate to perk you up.

The kayaking expedition will be enjoyable and safe if you get yourself outfit with all the proper accessories. Kayaking is best done in group as more people can take care of each other and it is more exciting that way. Even without kayaking accessories, it can be done but not out at the treacherous sea. Whatever, it is best to equip yourself by choosing the proper kayaking accessories.

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Kayak sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 58 - 1 more hour

Removed all the hardware, seat, lines, etc. and epoxy saturated the holes. I will let it cure completely and start the sanding. Now the nerves are setting in. Soon we will see the final project, however it comes out. I also purchased some lower sawhorses. My table is a little too high to make it easy to sand the surface.

Day 59 - 4.5 more hours

Started the sanding today. Started with 120 grit on my orbital sander with LOTS of disks. I had a lot of runs and drips to remove. Really came out better than I had hoped. Finished with 220 grit with the orbital. Found a few areas that needed a bit more epoxy so I will let it cure for another day or two and start with a sanding block. Hand sanding only from here on.

Day 60-63 - 6 more hours

I read the instructions on the spar varnish! The manual advises that once you are finished with the glassing to take your boat kayaking. That is a very pleasant way of saying that is your only choice. You cannot start applying the varnish until 7 days after the last coating of epoxy. Well, I wasn't planning on introducing it to the world until it was finished so I decided to do some more sanding and I am really glad I did.

I had used my orbital sander with 120 grit and then 220 grit and thought it was pretty good. I noticed that the surface still had a mottled surface even though it felt fine. I started sanding it by hand with the 220 grit paper and was really pleased with the improvement. On the photos you can see both sides of the hull. One half is hand sanded and the other is not. Vast improvement; however at the rate I am going it will take another 12 hours to get it ready for the varnish. With the amount of time I have invested already I am not going to cut corners now. So it looks like no varnish until I'm ready.

Day 64-66 - 8 more hours

I have continued to sand the hull with 220 grit paper by hand and it looks pretty good. My 7 days of waiting are almost up (before I can start the varnish) and then I realized I forgot the half rounds for the hatches. It looks like the hatches will have to wait a week more before they get completed. Also got the clips epoxied under the hatches for the retaining cords.

I did weigh the boat. Without the straps, cords, seat and hatch covers it weighed 38 lbs.

I came up with a fixture to help with the epoxy saturating of the ½ rounds. To allow me to do all sides at once, I made a "V" form from some aluminum foil. Worked neat. I have the hatch seals installed, glued the Velcro to the seat pad and epoxied the other half of the Velcro to the hull, held down by some bricks over Mylar.

I have to epoxy the ½ rounds in place; after they cure I can then remove the hatch straps and can start the varnish. The finish is in sight.

Stand Up Paddleboard for Exercise

By Elizabeth Froment

Stand up paddleboarding is taking the world by storm! Originally started by surfers in Hawaii looking for a way to keep in shape while the waves were not good, they found that using a paddleboard provided a perfect way to still be out on the water, and get exercise at the same time.

Since that time, millions of people have gotten into the world of SUP (stand up paddleboarding). Now people paddleboard to get out on the water, explore, enjoy nature, have fun with friends, and to exercise all at the same time.

Paddleboarding is one of the best core workouts you can find. From a paddlers toes to her head, practically every muscle in the body is being used (even counting the smiles!). Because a major component of stand up paddleboarding is balance, the feet and legs are working hard to keep the board (and you) balanced and sturdy. At the same time, since paddling is involved, arms, hands, shoulders and the back is all utilized to keep the paddleboard gliding on top of the water. All the while, the paddlers core abdominal and back muscles are getting a fantastic workout.

Another benefit that comes with stand up paddleboarding is that the sport is super low impact. If an athlete is struggling because of joint or muscle pain running or doing other exercises at the gym, paddleboarding can really help. Since there are no heavy movements or violent impacts associated with SUP, someone can paddle for hours, burn over 1,000 calories and not feel achy and creaky the next morning.

Now, many people (men and women alike) are getting into a new way to use your stand up paddleboard: yoga. That's right, yoga on a paddleboard! Doing yoga on the board provides an extra balance dimension, which can be an extra bit of fun and challenge for a yoga practitioner. What might be the best benefit of doing yoga on a stand up paddleboard is the view. Being able to take in the water and relax in the sun adds a really nice experience to yoga that someone could not get in a gym or studio.

Many people are still on the fence as to weather they want to buy a stand up paddleboard, but once they realize that there are so many extra benefits to paddleboarding such as exercise, fun, exploration and enjoying nature, it can push them in the right direction.

Elizabeth Froment writes about stand up paddleboarding, including its excitement and benefits. Check out more great info on paddleboarding [http://paddleboardforsale.net/], and get out on the water!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Elizabeth_Froment/1286102


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CNY paddleboards sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 51 - 1 more hour

I inverted the boat in my back yard and completed the other end pour (and then I went paddling with my kayak club).

Day 52 - 1 more hour

Installed the hip braces and started cleaning up around the hatch and coaming areas.

Days 53-54 - 4 more hours

I installed the hatch spacer strips, one side each night. Finally installed and glassed the coaming. I had waited to apply the upper coat of glass until they were installed, I felt it would look better and it does. Not much left and I will be able to sand the boat in prep for the varnish. I did put a fill coat on coaming and hip braces to smooth out the surfaces.

Days 55-56 - 2 more hours

I installed the seat back and hand toggles. Not much excitement and it looks closer to being finished every day now. I am still waiting for the new foam thigh brace pads from Pygmy. They were backordered on my last order. I would also like to caution everyone about lining up their components correctly before they drill holes in the boat or you will have some patching to do later (see last photo).

Day 57 - 3 hours more

Using a method from my work, I marked all the locations for the deck lines, etc. using masking tape. No lines on the surface required, just aligned the tape with the carpenters square on the measurement in the manual and use the intersections to mark the hole locations. This proved to be very exact. I then mounted all the deck lines to verify locations. Looks Great! Now everything must come off so I can seal the edges of the holes and sand and varnish the boat.

How to Land Fish From a Kayak or SUP

By Steven M Becker

I've lost good sized trout and bigger fish including a 20# Mahi Mahi right at the boat because I didn't have the experience or know how to land them. Small boats require careful planning and organization to successfully land fish.

It is a challenge to land a fish from a kayak or paddleboard. These types of boats will tip easily. Add the weight and pressure of a fish and you will be unbalanced. Know where your weight is during the entire process. You will not be able to lean over and look at a big fish while landing it.

The rod, the fish and the net or gaff are all in play during the landing. Organize your gear so you know where it is and synchronize all three for a succseful outcome.

A medium handled net or gaff of 12 - 16" is the best size for a small boat. It is easy to store and will not cause the boat to become unbalanced while landing a fish. Long handles make for a lot of leverage but you will need to lean too far against the other side of the boat to catch the fish. Short handles force you to lean to close causing a potential for capsize. Nets are best used for softer finned fish. Anything spiny or with teeth is better landed with a gaff.

It is exciting to get a strike when fishing but the work has just begun. Landing the fish by yourself is a far bigger challenge than hooking it. If you are trolling it is important to keep paddling for 4 or 6 good long strokes to set the hook. The fish will not hook itself it needs the forward momentum of the boat. Keep even pressure on the line. No jerks or slack. Either will loose the fish. Drag is important as well. Leave it loose enough for the fish to take line if it needs to make a run.

Don't reel too much line in. You want to be able to lift the rod tip to near vertical to manipulate the fish where you want it before it leaves the water. This is usually the leader length or about 6'.

Once the fish is ready to be landed use your left hand for the rod and your right for the net. Lift the rod high so you can move the fish to the waiting net or gaff. Trying to swipe or reach for the fish will cause them to spook and make a run. It is better to move the fish to the waiting net. Patience is a virtue here. Once the fish is in the net or on the gaff bring it into the boat and save the keepers or release the fish.

Tough fighters require submission. A billy club is effective for this. Many species will fight harder once landed than they did in the water. Sharp teeth and fins are a recipe for disaster when you are in close quarters.

Small boats require organization, experience and know how to land fish. Once you have mastered this it is rewarding to start landing fish.

Paddling for Trout is a great reference for kayak and SUP anglers. For more info and reviews, products and more check out The Fishing Geek

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Steven_M_Becker/1263990


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CNY fishing kayaks sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 46-47 - 2 more hours

Prepped the lower coaming area and got the upper coaming installed. I only glassed the lower surface of the upper coaming. I think it will be better looking if I glass both together and run the glass down the inside of the lower coaming at the same time. Finally starting to look like a real kayak.



Days 48 - 3 more hours

Cut out the hatch openings. Very long process by hand. There is a problem keeping the blade perpendicular to the hull that would be much easier with a jig saw. We will all find out how good I did when I install them back on the hull.



Day 49 - 3 more hours

Out of town all week, first day back to the boat. Finished glassing the sheer in the hatch areas. Made some tools to assist with the process. I bought some sanding foam block and mounted them on a dowel. I could sand the surfaces almost all the way to the bow and stern. Also mounted a bristle brush on another stick to seat the glass with epoxy. Both worked very sell. Of course I also make the syringe extension as per the manual although going through the hatch openings, it turned out much shorter.



Day 50 - 5 more hours

Today I got a lot done. I glassed the upper edges of both bulkheads. The rear had quite a gap and I will fill the areas more when I do the stern pour. I used scraps of glass rather than the tape due to the odd shape of the areas. Worked pretty good. After everything had set up I moved the boat into my back yard to do the bow pour. I used a bucket of water to cool the bow. It did get hot. Tomorrow will try to get the stern done and get it back inside before it rains again. Also included a photo of my Hull ID Number. I used a felt tip pen on the surface and just put a layer of epoxy over it. Didn't come out too bad.

4 Great Tips for Storing Inflatable Kayaks

By Mathew Waters

Before you attempt to put your new vessel away after a long day out on the water, you should be aware of a few important tips for storing inflatable kayaks or canoes. Maintenance and proper storage are extremely important if you plan on using your device for many seasons to come so get in the habit of paying close attention to the condition of your inflatable kayak and how you put it away every single time that you are done using it.

Make Sure Your Kayak is Clean

You probably wouldn't put your coffee mug away after drinking out of it all day without cleaning it nor should you overlook washing your inflatable kayak or canoe prior to storage. Be sure to pay special attention to flushing grit and sand away from foot braces, tracks and out of the skeg boxes. You may be surprised at the things you can pick up in the water that could do damage if the kayak was folded up and put away without them being removed.

Storing Inflated

If you have the room to store your inflatable kayak without deflating it, this is ultimately your best option, unless of course you're putting it away for the season and won't need it for a few months. An inflated one must be stored in a dry, cool location. This is extremely important! A kayak that is stored out in the open, exposed to the harsh elements will become less functional and aesthetically pleasing. Direct sunlight will fade your inflatable kayak and it can ultimately warp it.

When storing inflated, the canoe or kayak must never be laid in any position other than how it would naturally be found in the water. Laying it on its side can cause warping just as easily as the sun. Also, never pile anything on top of it because extended weight can do damage.

Folded Storage

One of the greatest benefits associated with inflatable kayaks is the fact that they can be folded up and stored in the original bag they came in. If you've ever tried rolling up a tent and squeezing it back in its original bag with the poles, you know this can get a little challenging. However, as long as your kayak is properly prepared for storage, you should have no problem.

The first step to making sure it is ready to be folded up is to make sure that it is completely dry, inside and out. Even if you think it's dry, if you take a clean towel to the tracks and crevices, you will probably still find moisture. If folded this way, your kayak will be infested with mildew and mold next time you use it if it isn't ruined before then. Fold it up tightly and store it in a dry bag.

Location

Whether you are storing your kayak away inflated of deflated, put some thought into the storage location. If you are putting it in your garage that houses a few rodents, chances are, your kayak will be ruined. It also needs to be kept away from cats and dogs as well!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Mathew_Waters/923995


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Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.kayakhelp.com. Please visit his complete kayaking guide for all skills and ages.

Kayak Sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 46-47 - 2 more hours

Prepped the lower coaming area and got the upper coaming installed. I only glassed the lower surface of the upper coaming. I think it will be better looking if I glass both together and run the glass down the inside of the lower coaming at the same time. Finally starting to look like a real kayak.

Days 48 - 3 more hours

Cut out the hatch openings. Very long process by hand. There is a problem keeping the blade perpendicular to the hull that would be much easier with a jig saw. We will all find out how good I did when I install them back on the hull.

Day 49 - 3 more hours

Out of town all week, first day back to the boat. Finished glassing the sheer in the hatch areas. Made some tools to assist with the process. I bought some sanding foam block and mounted them on a dowel. I could sand the surfaces almost all the way to the bow and stern. Also mounted a bristle brush on another stick to seat the glass with epoxy. Both worked very sell. Of course I also make the syringe extension as per the manual although going through the hatch openings, it turned out much shorter.

Day 50 - 5 more hours

Today I got a lot done. I glassed the upper edges of both bulkheads. The rear had quite a gap and I will fill the areas more when I do the stern pour. I used scraps of glass rather than the tape due to the odd shape of the areas. Worked pretty good. After everything had set up I moved the boat into my back yard to do the bow pour. I used a bucket of water to cool the bow. It did get hot. Tomorrow will try to get the stern done and get it back inside before it rains again. Also included a photo of my Hull ID Number. I used a felt tip pen on the surface and just put a layer of epoxy over it. Didn't come out too bad.

Day 51 - 1 more hour

I inverted the boat in my back yard and completed the other end pour (and then I went paddling with my kayak club CNY Kayakers ).

Kayak paddle blades

The blades of your kayak paddles are the most important part when it comes to worry about whether or not you'll be able to control the kayak. This part of the paddle effects how much water you can push with each stroke as well as how the paddle will be able to move through the water. You generally want a good balance between the amount of force you get with each stroke and how easy it is for the paddle to move through the water.

There are two main types of paddle blades: symmetrical and asymmetrical. The type of paddle that you use will generally have something to do with the type of kayaking you're intending on doing. Usually for people who are going kayak touring, asymmetrical paddles are the norm. This is due to the fact that the asymmetrical shape can help give you more control over the kayak - and makes it easier for the paddle to just move through the water.

Another thing that you should look at when you're trying to decide what type of paddle blades will work best for you are whether or not they are curved. If you're a beginner, then you'll probably want to start out with a flatter blade. This is due to the fact that these blades are very easy to control even if you're just starting out. However, if you're an experienced kayaker, then you might want to look into getting a curved blade. This is due to the fact that the curved blades will grip the water better and give you more power.

Some kayak blades are even curved in a cross section, instead of just being curved lengthwise. These blades will give different types of control over the water when they are being used, so you should probably check to see what the paddle blades look like before you buy any kayak paddles. Once again, if you're a beginner, then you will probably want to buy one of the flatter paddles, since they allow the most control.

If you're looking for kayak paddles, make sure that you take a good look at the blades before you buy them. For beginners, simpler is usually better, so if you've never been kayaking before, you should look into buying the flattest paddle blades that you can find. If you have been kayaking before, however, then you may want to experiment with the different types of paddle blades until you find the type that work best for you.

Source: Free Articles from ArticlesFactory.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.kayakhelp.com. Please visit his complete kayaking guide for all skills and ages.

CNY Kayak & Paddleboard Paddles

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 38-39 - 3 more hours

The deck is glued to the hull. I had a bit of a problem with the strapping tape not holding. I solved it by using my load straps. Conveniently I had enough. Did use some tape but found I had to encircle the boat completely so I could stick to itself. That could be because I had ½ inch tape and the manual call out ¾ inch. Not enough surface area?? Filled the gaps tonight and this weekend I will be able to fillet the inside sheer seam. I am quite pleased the bulkheads. Some gaps but they should fill nicely.

Days 40-41 - 3 more hours

I applied the fillets to both sides of the cockpit area and covered with the Glass tape. I will do the hatch areas once I cut those out. Looks pretty good. I am adding every option the boat has so I am running out of supplies. Ordered more tape, epoxy, rollers and some other supplies. The slides for the thigh pads took a lot of material. Pygmy also has a new thigh pad (precut) kit available soon. I ordered that as well.

The gaps in the areas between the hull and deck are driving me batty. They seem very hard to fill so I used a craft stick as a puddy knife and filled them. Looks kind of rough but they sanded out good.

Days 42- 43 - 4 more hours

Applied the saturation coat, let cure, sanded lightly and glassed the deck. When cutting the cloth for this step, be very careful. It is too easy to leave yourself some extra on one end only to find you need it for the other. I let the epoxy get (tacky) and cut the glass above the tape and removed. This worked very good. I am looking forward to installing the cockpit coaming, but that can wait.



Enough for this week, I'm paddling my other kayak this weekend.

Days 44-45 - 2 more hours

I have run out of supplies (epoxy and FG tape) so I have spent my time sanding out the areas where the glass overlapped at the cockpit area and prepared the components for the coaming. When the supplies arrived from Pygmy I was able to install the lower coaming and apply a light coating of epoxy to the sanded areas. A lot of clamps ARE necessary. I was very pleased just how well it covered. Amazing stuff.

Zegul Specials

Zegul Arrow Nuka GT in A-Core with Skeg $2299

Food to Fuel Stand Up Paddling

By Frank Giacomo

What you eat before your session can make a real difference to your SUP experience. It can help you to call on the energy and stamina required to keep going as long as the waves keep coming in. Without it you could find yourself sitting on the shore watching everyone else having a ball on their paddle boards because you didn't prepare well. Just as you would fuel your car, you need to fuel your body. So how do you prepare?

1. Carbohydrates - SUP is an endurance sport and relies on your ability to perform powerful movements so this is the fuel that your muscles need the most. Carbohydrates are also known as 'brain food', being the only fuel that your brain can use. If you don't eat enough carbs your body will need to slow down while it turns fat into fuel - not what you want if your racing against challenging waves or on a long-distance paddle.

2. Good fat - you don't need a lot, but you definitely need some especially when this endurance sport can require you to call on your body's fat stores to get through that last half an hour of paddling. Avocados and nuts are a good start to replacing your body's fat stores.

3. Protein - in addition to assisting your body to build muscle, protein is a vital part of a balanced and healthy diet and a strong immune system. It repairs any muscle damage that exercise can cause and keeps bones healthy. However, it is important to balance your protein intake as too little can lead to a loss of muscle mass and too much will only cause strain on the kidneys.

4. Fluids - 60-70% of the body is made up of water. Loosing just 2% of your body weight in fluid (which is easy to do in an hour on a hot day out in the water) can be detrimental to your performance, leading to lethargy and headaches. Making sure you replenish your fluids is extremely important. If you are doing strenuous paddling, you may need to replace lost electrolytes and this can be done through sports drinks and others with salt of citric acid to aid in absorption.

5. Calcium - as one of the key foods to building stronger bones, calcium is important to ensuring your bones are resilient enough to avoid fractures or bone diseases like osteoporosis. Calcium is abundant in different foods and can be found in sardines, tofu and dairy products.

6. Vitamins and minerals - leading a balanced and vitamin rich diet with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables is extremely important to your health and your ability to exercise. Vitamins and minerals will help your body to perform well and to recover from exercise.

With a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates, good fats, protein, fluids, calcium and vitamins and minerals, you should be fueled to perform. Now grab your paddle board and enjoy those long SUP sessions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Frank_Giacomo/894008


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HOW TO STORE YOUR PADDLEBOARD AT HOME

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 29 - 2 more hours

Sanded and scraped to feather the edges of the reinforcing glass at the inside butt seam. Lightly sanded the inside edge to smooth out the saturation coat. Almost ready to glass the inside of the hull. Instructions say to lay down a strip of masking tape ¾" above the upper chine. Problem is how. I used a technique my body shop does at work to place lettering on vehicles. They use a jig to mark the dimension necessary and use that to align the tape. The craft sticks I have been using to stir the epoxy are just ¾". Worked great and fast.

Days 30-31 - 5 more hours

I have found parts of this project tedious, mundane, rewarding and exciting, but the last task I have completed has been the hardest; glassing the interior of the hull. This was tough to complete. It is nearly impossible to use the squeegee. All it did is raise the glass out of the seams. I ended up using a brush to carefully seat the glass to the surface. I know there is an excessive amount of epoxy on the surface but there is not much I could do about it. Even so there were several areas where the glass formed bubbles that I didn't find in time. Those areas I cut out the bubbles and used a piece of scrap glass to cover the areas properly. Maybe if I had more experience with glass/epoxy I wouldn't have found it so hard. No complaints, you have to learn somehow.

Days 32-35 - 8 more hours

I have spent the last few days getting everything ready for gluing the deck on. Surprising how much has to be completed first. I glued the studs for the footbraces in place. I like that so much more than drilling holes for bolts through the hull. I also put a fill coat on the glass in the cockpit area. Lots for smoothing out and filling areas where contact would be made by the paddler. No jagged edges rubbing my legs please.

I have started glassing the bulkheads and hatch components. I have decided to install my bulkheads (but not the hatches) before I glue on the deck. I have discussed this with Pygmy and their reply was "Our standard recommendation is to install bulkheads after all hull construction is complete to avoid any issues with your deck fitting the hull that can come up if the bulkheads are installed prior to deck being glued down." I am more concerned with their fit and until they are in the hull I can't verify their fit to the deck. This will also allow me to glass tape on both sides of the forward bulkhead.

Done for the week, now time for my kayaking.

Days 36-37 - 2 more hours

It has taken 2 days but I have the bulkheads installed in the hull. I used the glass tape on the cockpit side, since it will be seen and scraps on the hatch sides, since it won't be. I gave the tape side a day to cure before doing the scrap side. I noted that the hull was bowed out slightly from the bulkheads. To bring everything back together, I used my load straps to pull everything together. Worked good! I will use them again when I glue on the deck. They can exert a lot more pressure than tape and I didn't have to drill more holes.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

Kayaking Security - Preventing Kayak Theft

By Larry S. Kang

Sometimes when kayakers are out on the water, they will want to leave their kayaks somewhere unattended. For example, many great kayaking locations are near trails, beaches, or other interesting places to hike around. It's always nice to be able to leave the kayak and explore a paddling destination. However, kayakers who do this should give some thought to the security of their kayaks and kayaking gear.

One of the more obvious issues with leaving kayaks unattended is theft. Kayaks are vulnerable to theft in a number of situations, such as when left on a shore, on a car-top rack, or even when stored at home. However, reliable statistics on the numbers of kayak thefts that occur in these various situations may be difficult to find. Kayak theft does occur, though, as is sometimes reported in the news, kayaking forums, or stolen kayak databases.

If you are keeping your kayak on your car rack, there are several options for locking your kayak, including locking tie-down straps, or cable locks, which are similar to bike locks. The cable locks loop around both ends of the kayak so they can't be taken off without unlocking them. The middle section can then loop through a secure part of your car rack. Locking tie-down straps simply have a locking buckle so that the strap cannot be loosened when locked.

Some kayakers have used a car club across the widest part of the cockpit of the kayak. This makes it difficult for anyone to sit in the kayak, while providing a place to secure a cable.

It may be more difficult to securely leave your kayak at a beach or other landing spot, since there may be nothing to tie it to. If you have gear in your kayak, you could try using a backpack security mesh to lock up drybags or possibly cover the cockpit of your kayak completely, so that no one can sit in it or take anything out. Another good practice is to take your paddle with you whenever you leave your kayak unattended. This makes it more difficult for a would-be thief to simply get in your kayak and paddle away.

But even with all of these security measures available, the most determined thief will be able to steal the most prudently secured kayak. In case this happens, the best information to have is the kayak's hull identification number. This is a number that can be used to positively identify the kayak in case it is recovered. Furthermore, anyone coming across the kayak (such as a potential buyer) who suspects it may be stolen can check the hull identification number with the police. This is why it is important to know the kayak's hull identification number or have it recorded and kept in a safe place. The hull identification number can usually be found engraved, stamped, or printed on the hull - look for the long string of letters and numbers.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Larry_S._Kang/339678


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HOW TO STORE YOUR KAYAK FOR WINTER PROPERLY

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

Day-4 more hours

Well, I have sanded the deck and removed it from the hull and started on the underside. The deck really turned out nice. I wish I had taken as long on the hull in sanding out all the drip marks. It does show. Well, I learned for the next boat.

I epoxied all the seams under the deck and filled the area around the rear of the cockpit. Will let that cure and then do the tape and reinforcing glass around the kayak cockpit areas. That will have to wait for another day.

Day 22-23 - 5 more hours

After some sanding, I taped the seams on the hull and put it back on the hull to cure. A very important point to remember: taping the seams epoxy will leak out the wire holes onto your work surface. If you don't clean it up before you place your hull back on the surface, you will epoxy your hull to the work surface. I have a small remnant of my work surface to sand off my hull before I am done. Luckily the hull's surface is tougher than the top of my work table.

Glassed the cockpit area, added the additional glass at the rear of the cockpit and 6 oz. tape at the front and finished with a saturation coat. One more saturation coat after this cures and I am done for the week time to go kayaking.

Day 24-25 -3 more hours

Set up the forms for the adjustable thigh braces. Applied my fillets on the outside edges of the forms. Also applied the epoxy to the stems with their support fillets. I had some difficulty with this. It is difficult to approximate just how much wood flour to use and in the stern edge, being as narrow as it is, I used much too much epoxy and it slowly ran down the keel and I have a lump to contend with. No one will ever see it but me so I have chosen to forget it.

Day 26 - 2 more hours

Couldn't work at all on the 16th. Record heat here, over 100 degrees; too hot in my garage. I do have a suggestion for those of you that have similar temperature problems (it has been over 90 for the last week). To allow me to use the epoxy I have been placing my jugs into an aluminum tray filled with ice water. It has really given me very good working time.

Finished the thigh brace areas by glassing the 4 layers of tape over the forms. I had put all the raised edges on the glass tape to the sheer edge of the deck and had some difficulty in getting them to lay flat. To try to smooth them out I placed a sheet of Mylar over the edge and using a shim to apply pressure to the edge, without actually covering them, I clamped them down. Will see how it worked tomorrow.



A General Note: I dry fitted my bulkheads into the hull tonight and I was amazed how perfectly they fit. Then I tried them on the underside of the deck, which has had fillet places about the recess plate, glass reinforcement about the cockpit area and tape reinforcement on the forward deck, and they don't fit anymore. I will have to, which the manual does state, trim them to fit. If anyone has a suggestion as to how to do this correctly the first time, I would be very happy to hear it. Credit will be given (if it works).

Days 27-28 - 4 more hours

Removed the forms for the adjustable thigh pads. It looks OK. I think I would just skip this step if I knew exactly where I wanted them and just epoxy them in place.

I am very unhappy with the fillets at the bow and stern. It is so hard to judge the amount of wood flour to allow the epoxy to sag and not run. My epoxy keeps running out of the area so I gave up and set my hull about a 30 degree angle and poured it in. It worked finally.

Prepped the hull for the glass reinforcement at the center seam. Installed the glass and applied the saturation coat to the inside of the hull. Finally, I can take the rest of the weekend off and go kayaking. See you next week.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

How to Store Your Kayak For Winter Properly

By Shannon Clark

If you're someone who is just getting started with kayaking, it's important that you take the time to learn how to store your kayak for winter. Winter storage is something many people miss out on and then when they go to pick their kayak back up for a kayak trip in the spring, they find out it doesn't look or function the same.

Here are the main things you must know in order to store it properly.

Clean The Outer Side Thoroughly

The first thing you should be doing is making sure you wash the entire kayak down with a hose first. This will clean off any dirt, salt, or other substances that might have gotten onto it during the summer runs.

A typical garden hose will work perfectly for this - just be sure you are cleaning all sides as best as you can.

Don't Neglect The Inner Portion

Once you're finished cleaning the outside, then your next step is to also clean the inside out as well. Usually water will get into the kayak as you're running the waves and if the salt sits there over winter it could weaken the boat.

Don't forget to clean in and around the handles as well - every area needs to be washed with clean water.

Stand It At An Angle

After you've finished watering it down, then the next thing to do will be to stand it upright at an angle. This will allow all the water to run off it and then when you store it, if it happens to rain or snow (if you're storing it outside), the water there will also run off it.

You never want to let water sit in your kayak and accumulate when you store it over the winter.

Add A Cover

Finally, if you're planning on storing it outside and the area you're thinking about does get a fair amount of sunlight, then you should also cover it with some form of tarp or other material.

This will be important to protect it from UV rays, which can really damage your boat.

So keep these tips in mind to store your kayak over winter. If you do them immediately after you finish your last trip, then you know you will be able to pick your kayak up again next year in the similar condition you left it.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Shannon_Clark/125749


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Camillus Kayak Shop New York

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 20 -3 more hours

I had forgotten that when you first coat or varnish a raw wood surface, you usually raise all the grain. Well, that's just what the epoxy did, it raised all the grain. After some scraping with the cabinet scraper and some 150 grit paper, I was ready for glass. It wasn't too bad. Some concerns at the stern, and I did use some clamps to secure the fabric initially. One thing I did at the stern you don't want to do. I secured the flaps of glass at the stern with tape so they wouldn't move. Having never worked with glass I didn't realize just how much of a problem it is to get the tape off the glass. It was not pretty. Don't do that.

It was really helpful to have my photographer, Anne, mixing epoxy for me during the glass installation. Saved much time and made it much easier. Next thing to do is to laminate the keel tape and apply the fill coats. Not much to photograph there. See you next week.

Day 18-19 -2 more hours

Laminated the keel tape and applied the two fill coats. Not that difficult although the 6 oz. tape takes a lot of epoxy to wet out properly. It has been quite warm here so I have been placing my epoxy and hardener into a sink of cold water prior to usage and it works very well. As the manual says, the tape does have quite a pronounced edge on one side. Also noted the overlap at the stern. I will see just how well they smooth out later.

Day 20-21 -7 more hours

The overlap at the stern cleaned up good! Assembled the deck on the hull. This was exciting. I can finally see the kayak. I ran into something that the manual didn't cover. It says to wire the fore and aft decks so the wire twists are on the outside, but it doesn't say how. On the fore deck you can reach two of the three joints but when you add the other panel #5, you have a box with no opening! I solved it by releasing the tape from the bow so it could flex up and installing the wires just enough so I could bend over the ends. After all were installed, I pulled the wires up and was able to twist them snugly. The first application of epoxy is applied to the joints. Tomorrow if it's cool enough I will apply thickened epoxy to smooth out the joints.

Day 22 - 1.5 more hours

Mixed up some epoxy with wood flour to fill my seams. Not too bad. I did locate a potential problem. The manual states to cover the frames with tape and insert a piece of Mylar between the bow and stern so they don't get glued to the hull. On the 4PD model there is one other area on each side where you must take precaution as well. The very narrow section of panel #5 is so close to the hull, if there is any gap between the panel and the cockpit lip (this is an area where it is difficult not to have a gap), there will be leakage. Epoxy will run down the inside and bond the panel to the hull on the inside. I was able to separate the two by carefully inserting a razor knife and tapping it with a hammer. It popped apart neatly.

Tomorrow is another 96 degree day so I will let the epoxy cure.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

What to Pack When Taking Your Kids Kayaking

Kayaking can be a wonderful way for the whole family to get out of the house, away from electronic devices and into the big outdoors, breathing in the fresh air while spending quality time together. Paddling across a smooth body of water and enjoying the day while getting in some exercise is one of those fun family activity holidays that are sure to build memories that will last a lifetime. Including kids of all ages in a kayaking adventure can be easy and stress-free with a little advance planning, ensuring your trip runs smoothly and is fun for everyone!

Safety First

To start, make sure you all are equipped with Personal Flotation Devices (life jackets) for each member that fit nice and snug. Wear them from day one and your kids will never question having to wear them again. If your life jacket does not come equipped with a whistle, purchase and attach to each jacket, instructing your kids that whistles are for emergencies only.

Keep Dry

Assume clothing will get wet at some point during your kayaking adventure, so wear items made from quick-drying fabric or alternatively, invest in dry tops, pants or wetsuits specifically made for water sports. Store your shore clothing in waterproof dry bags – these are also good for storing food as the odours are contained and you won’t risk attracting nosy bears or other wildlife.

Sunshine & Bugs

Protect your kids from mosquitos and sunburn by packing and applying bug spray and a high SPF sunblock. Another option is to outfit them in long-sleeved bug shirts that will do double duty. A wide-rimmed hat with chin strap is also ideal to protect kids from the heat of the sun. Pack some rainwear, a must for any family activity holidays, in the event the weather turns before heading out onto the water.

Accessories

Proper sunglasses are essential for eye health and comfort when the sun’s rays are reflecting off the surface of the water, so make certain each person has a pair (and wears them!). Bring along binoculars for the kids to use during your kayak expedition and ask them to share any wildlife sightings with the rest of the family. Give one child a compass and allow him or her to guide the kayak or group.

Keep Hunger at Bay

Packing a wide assortment of healthy snacks in a number of small plastic bags or waterproof containers will fare well and will keep kids young and old satisfied. Family activity holidays require easy-to-pack, healthy snacks such as fresh apple pieces and grapes, dried apricots and dates, and biscuits. Mixing in some healthy snacks that are higher in fat, such as cheese, pine nuts and macadamia nuts will keep your kids feeling satisfied longer. Take double the amount of snacks you think will be sufficient in order to ensure you have enough for the trip.

Capture the Moment

Lastly, don’t forget the camera! Ensure your special moments together are captured and protect your camera by using a waterproof camera pouch that does not need to be removed to use. Store in your dry bags for extra protection in between uses.

Kayaking with your kids can be the perfect family activity. Holidays spent together on the water will be sure to float your spirits as much as your kayak, as you bring the family together to do something fun and active together. It will no doubt lay the foundation for future trips your children will be sure to look forward to.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Richard Edwards is the Managing Director of Summit & Blue, an adventure holiday company offering independently crafted family activity holidays to exciting destinations around the world, including France, Italy, Portugal, the USA and Canada. With unique itineraries and exciting activities like biking, hiking, white water rafting and canoeing, we create holidays for those looking for an experience a little more off the beaten track.

Kayaking Accessories

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 16 - 2 more hours

Finished the initial sanding tonight (I thought). After I got my leaf blower out and cleaned everything up, some more sanding will be required. I still have to fix those few seams that didn't get enough epoxy to fill them anyways. SO, not remembering what the "Epoxy Manual" said about hot days (it was 96 here today), I mixed a small batch, filled my syringe, and proceeded to fill the few gaps I have left. About 1/3 of the syringe later, it was so hot I couldn't hold it. I did get filled what I needed, I hope; but I think I will wait a few days till this heat wave is over. I removed the balance of the epoxy from the syringe with a screwdriver.

I also must acknowledge my photographer. She has threatened to quit if I don't.

Photos by Anne S.

Day 17 - 1 more hour

Today I had to tackle a messy project. Both seams at the bow and stern need a fillet of epoxy, stiffened to the consistency of cake frosting. This allows the hull to be formed to the rounded shape at these joints without removing wood from the hull. The manual recommends that you fill the dental syringe and apply to both areas. The videos I have watched of this are tedious. It's like squirting toothpaste out of an eye dropper. Since it is the consistency of cake frosting, I went to a kitchen supply center and bought a cake decorating nozzle. I cut it to produce the correct size fillet, attached it to a plastic bag filled with epoxy and applied. It worked great and quickly. Tomorrow when I start to shape it into the correct dimensions I will find out how well it worked.

Day 18 - 1.5 more hours

I sanded my fillets tonight and they came out pretty good. Did some more general sanding around the hull and my next step is the saturation coat of epoxy. This is a little scary with my experience level. Did I get the surface smooth enough? Will the small areas I haven't completely filled with epoxy create serious air pockets? We will find out tomorrow. Anyway, I can’t put it off any longer. We will see....

Day 19 - 1.5 more hours

Completed the saturation coat of epoxy and smoothed out all my bubbles. Now I wait until tomorrow and see the results. I really wish I knew what I was doing here. It didn't come out exactly as I thought it would. Of course, I don't know how it is supposed to come out in the first place. Don't you just love to do something for the first time; especially when you just spent a whole bunch of money on it and really hope it works out right.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale