Choosing the Proper Kayaking Accessories

By Ernest Tang

Kayaking is an unpredictable sport as you will not be able to foresee the outcome. It is only through preparation that you are able to prevail over whatever odds that might be thrown at you. Different kayaks are built for different purposes to cope with the diverse types of sea conditions. Some are just for sightseeing while other may be for dangerous white water kayaking. When you are dealing with the trying condition of the water, a kayak with a paddle is not enough. You will need other accessories to help you survive and the first equipment you will need is the ability to transport the kayak.

You need to outfit yourself with the right kayaking accessories and clothing is crucial. Clothing has to be waterproofed and disperse all perspiration. The best type is makes of synthetic material as they are resilient. Sandals have to be waterproofed as well as a pair of gloves that will protect your hands from freezing cold in addition to avert blisters.

Kayaking is a water contact sport and can keel over without warning. You can permit a little water displacement and above that, you will put your personal safety in danger. To overcome that you can use sprayskirt that cover you fully that help to avert paddle splash in addition to keeping off rapids. As in water sport, all kayaking accessories need to be waterproof with food cooler manufacture from vinyl to keep it afloat. Add a flotation device too in case of emergency.

There are other essential kayaking accessories depending on whether you are in calm water or out at sea. In the unpredictable sea, you need survival accessories and remember to prepare yourself for any outcome, even the worst. Whatever your discretion; do not over pack as you need to be agile to cope with the treacherous conditions.

A bilge pump, a map and a compass together with paddle floats will do nicely. Irrespective of your experience, you need to carry those indispensable accessories at all time. Other additional kayaking accessories that you can bring along are baseball hat, sun visor to cut off glare and maybe some snacks such as a cereal bar or chocolate to perk you up.

The kayaking expedition will be enjoyable and safe if you get yourself outfit with all the proper accessories. Kayaking is best done in group as more people can take care of each other and it is more exciting that way. Even without kayaking accessories, it can be done but not out at the treacherous sea. Whatever, it is best to equip yourself by choosing the proper kayaking accessories.

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Kayak sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 58 - 1 more hour

Removed all the hardware, seat, lines, etc. and epoxy saturated the holes. I will let it cure completely and start the sanding. Now the nerves are setting in. Soon we will see the final project, however it comes out. I also purchased some lower sawhorses. My table is a little too high to make it easy to sand the surface.

Day 59 - 4.5 more hours

Started the sanding today. Started with 120 grit on my orbital sander with LOTS of disks. I had a lot of runs and drips to remove. Really came out better than I had hoped. Finished with 220 grit with the orbital. Found a few areas that needed a bit more epoxy so I will let it cure for another day or two and start with a sanding block. Hand sanding only from here on.

Day 60-63 - 6 more hours

I read the instructions on the spar varnish! The manual advises that once you are finished with the glassing to take your boat kayaking. That is a very pleasant way of saying that is your only choice. You cannot start applying the varnish until 7 days after the last coating of epoxy. Well, I wasn't planning on introducing it to the world until it was finished so I decided to do some more sanding and I am really glad I did.

I had used my orbital sander with 120 grit and then 220 grit and thought it was pretty good. I noticed that the surface still had a mottled surface even though it felt fine. I started sanding it by hand with the 220 grit paper and was really pleased with the improvement. On the photos you can see both sides of the hull. One half is hand sanded and the other is not. Vast improvement; however at the rate I am going it will take another 12 hours to get it ready for the varnish. With the amount of time I have invested already I am not going to cut corners now. So it looks like no varnish until I'm ready.

Day 64-66 - 8 more hours

I have continued to sand the hull with 220 grit paper by hand and it looks pretty good. My 7 days of waiting are almost up (before I can start the varnish) and then I realized I forgot the half rounds for the hatches. It looks like the hatches will have to wait a week more before they get completed. Also got the clips epoxied under the hatches for the retaining cords.

I did weigh the boat. Without the straps, cords, seat and hatch covers it weighed 38 lbs.

I came up with a fixture to help with the epoxy saturating of the ½ rounds. To allow me to do all sides at once, I made a "V" form from some aluminum foil. Worked neat. I have the hatch seals installed, glued the Velcro to the seat pad and epoxied the other half of the Velcro to the hull, held down by some bricks over Mylar.

I have to epoxy the ½ rounds in place; after they cure I can then remove the hatch straps and can start the varnish. The finish is in sight.

Stand Up Paddleboard for Exercise

By Elizabeth Froment

Stand up paddleboarding is taking the world by storm! Originally started by surfers in Hawaii looking for a way to keep in shape while the waves were not good, they found that using a paddleboard provided a perfect way to still be out on the water, and get exercise at the same time.

Since that time, millions of people have gotten into the world of SUP (stand up paddleboarding). Now people paddleboard to get out on the water, explore, enjoy nature, have fun with friends, and to exercise all at the same time.

Paddleboarding is one of the best core workouts you can find. From a paddlers toes to her head, practically every muscle in the body is being used (even counting the smiles!). Because a major component of stand up paddleboarding is balance, the feet and legs are working hard to keep the board (and you) balanced and sturdy. At the same time, since paddling is involved, arms, hands, shoulders and the back is all utilized to keep the paddleboard gliding on top of the water. All the while, the paddlers core abdominal and back muscles are getting a fantastic workout.

Another benefit that comes with stand up paddleboarding is that the sport is super low impact. If an athlete is struggling because of joint or muscle pain running or doing other exercises at the gym, paddleboarding can really help. Since there are no heavy movements or violent impacts associated with SUP, someone can paddle for hours, burn over 1,000 calories and not feel achy and creaky the next morning.

Now, many people (men and women alike) are getting into a new way to use your stand up paddleboard: yoga. That's right, yoga on a paddleboard! Doing yoga on the board provides an extra balance dimension, which can be an extra bit of fun and challenge for a yoga practitioner. What might be the best benefit of doing yoga on a stand up paddleboard is the view. Being able to take in the water and relax in the sun adds a really nice experience to yoga that someone could not get in a gym or studio.

Many people are still on the fence as to weather they want to buy a stand up paddleboard, but once they realize that there are so many extra benefits to paddleboarding such as exercise, fun, exploration and enjoying nature, it can push them in the right direction.

Elizabeth Froment writes about stand up paddleboarding, including its excitement and benefits. Check out more great info on paddleboarding [http://paddleboardforsale.net/], and get out on the water!

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CNY paddleboards sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 51 - 1 more hour

I inverted the boat in my back yard and completed the other end pour (and then I went paddling with my kayak club).

Day 52 - 1 more hour

Installed the hip braces and started cleaning up around the hatch and coaming areas.

Days 53-54 - 4 more hours

I installed the hatch spacer strips, one side each night. Finally installed and glassed the coaming. I had waited to apply the upper coat of glass until they were installed, I felt it would look better and it does. Not much left and I will be able to sand the boat in prep for the varnish. I did put a fill coat on coaming and hip braces to smooth out the surfaces.

Days 55-56 - 2 more hours

I installed the seat back and hand toggles. Not much excitement and it looks closer to being finished every day now. I am still waiting for the new foam thigh brace pads from Pygmy. They were backordered on my last order. I would also like to caution everyone about lining up their components correctly before they drill holes in the boat or you will have some patching to do later (see last photo).

Day 57 - 3 hours more

Using a method from my work, I marked all the locations for the deck lines, etc. using masking tape. No lines on the surface required, just aligned the tape with the carpenters square on the measurement in the manual and use the intersections to mark the hole locations. This proved to be very exact. I then mounted all the deck lines to verify locations. Looks Great! Now everything must come off so I can seal the edges of the holes and sand and varnish the boat.

How to Land Fish From a Kayak or SUP

By Steven M Becker

I've lost good sized trout and bigger fish including a 20# Mahi Mahi right at the boat because I didn't have the experience or know how to land them. Small boats require careful planning and organization to successfully land fish.

It is a challenge to land a fish from a kayak or paddleboard. These types of boats will tip easily. Add the weight and pressure of a fish and you will be unbalanced. Know where your weight is during the entire process. You will not be able to lean over and look at a big fish while landing it.

The rod, the fish and the net or gaff are all in play during the landing. Organize your gear so you know where it is and synchronize all three for a succseful outcome.

A medium handled net or gaff of 12 - 16" is the best size for a small boat. It is easy to store and will not cause the boat to become unbalanced while landing a fish. Long handles make for a lot of leverage but you will need to lean too far against the other side of the boat to catch the fish. Short handles force you to lean to close causing a potential for capsize. Nets are best used for softer finned fish. Anything spiny or with teeth is better landed with a gaff.

It is exciting to get a strike when fishing but the work has just begun. Landing the fish by yourself is a far bigger challenge than hooking it. If you are trolling it is important to keep paddling for 4 or 6 good long strokes to set the hook. The fish will not hook itself it needs the forward momentum of the boat. Keep even pressure on the line. No jerks or slack. Either will loose the fish. Drag is important as well. Leave it loose enough for the fish to take line if it needs to make a run.

Don't reel too much line in. You want to be able to lift the rod tip to near vertical to manipulate the fish where you want it before it leaves the water. This is usually the leader length or about 6'.

Once the fish is ready to be landed use your left hand for the rod and your right for the net. Lift the rod high so you can move the fish to the waiting net or gaff. Trying to swipe or reach for the fish will cause them to spook and make a run. It is better to move the fish to the waiting net. Patience is a virtue here. Once the fish is in the net or on the gaff bring it into the boat and save the keepers or release the fish.

Tough fighters require submission. A billy club is effective for this. Many species will fight harder once landed than they did in the water. Sharp teeth and fins are a recipe for disaster when you are in close quarters.

Small boats require organization, experience and know how to land fish. Once you have mastered this it is rewarding to start landing fish.

Paddling for Trout is a great reference for kayak and SUP anglers. For more info and reviews, products and more check out The Fishing Geek

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Steven_M_Becker/1263990


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CNY fishing kayaks sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 46-47 - 2 more hours

Prepped the lower coaming area and got the upper coaming installed. I only glassed the lower surface of the upper coaming. I think it will be better looking if I glass both together and run the glass down the inside of the lower coaming at the same time. Finally starting to look like a real kayak.



Days 48 - 3 more hours

Cut out the hatch openings. Very long process by hand. There is a problem keeping the blade perpendicular to the hull that would be much easier with a jig saw. We will all find out how good I did when I install them back on the hull.



Day 49 - 3 more hours

Out of town all week, first day back to the boat. Finished glassing the sheer in the hatch areas. Made some tools to assist with the process. I bought some sanding foam block and mounted them on a dowel. I could sand the surfaces almost all the way to the bow and stern. Also mounted a bristle brush on another stick to seat the glass with epoxy. Both worked very sell. Of course I also make the syringe extension as per the manual although going through the hatch openings, it turned out much shorter.



Day 50 - 5 more hours

Today I got a lot done. I glassed the upper edges of both bulkheads. The rear had quite a gap and I will fill the areas more when I do the stern pour. I used scraps of glass rather than the tape due to the odd shape of the areas. Worked pretty good. After everything had set up I moved the boat into my back yard to do the bow pour. I used a bucket of water to cool the bow. It did get hot. Tomorrow will try to get the stern done and get it back inside before it rains again. Also included a photo of my Hull ID Number. I used a felt tip pen on the surface and just put a layer of epoxy over it. Didn't come out too bad.

4 Great Tips for Storing Inflatable Kayaks

By Mathew Waters

Before you attempt to put your new vessel away after a long day out on the water, you should be aware of a few important tips for storing inflatable kayaks or canoes. Maintenance and proper storage are extremely important if you plan on using your device for many seasons to come so get in the habit of paying close attention to the condition of your inflatable kayak and how you put it away every single time that you are done using it.

Make Sure Your Kayak is Clean

You probably wouldn't put your coffee mug away after drinking out of it all day without cleaning it nor should you overlook washing your inflatable kayak or canoe prior to storage. Be sure to pay special attention to flushing grit and sand away from foot braces, tracks and out of the skeg boxes. You may be surprised at the things you can pick up in the water that could do damage if the kayak was folded up and put away without them being removed.

Storing Inflated

If you have the room to store your inflatable kayak without deflating it, this is ultimately your best option, unless of course you're putting it away for the season and won't need it for a few months. An inflated one must be stored in a dry, cool location. This is extremely important! A kayak that is stored out in the open, exposed to the harsh elements will become less functional and aesthetically pleasing. Direct sunlight will fade your inflatable kayak and it can ultimately warp it.

When storing inflated, the canoe or kayak must never be laid in any position other than how it would naturally be found in the water. Laying it on its side can cause warping just as easily as the sun. Also, never pile anything on top of it because extended weight can do damage.

Folded Storage

One of the greatest benefits associated with inflatable kayaks is the fact that they can be folded up and stored in the original bag they came in. If you've ever tried rolling up a tent and squeezing it back in its original bag with the poles, you know this can get a little challenging. However, as long as your kayak is properly prepared for storage, you should have no problem.

The first step to making sure it is ready to be folded up is to make sure that it is completely dry, inside and out. Even if you think it's dry, if you take a clean towel to the tracks and crevices, you will probably still find moisture. If folded this way, your kayak will be infested with mildew and mold next time you use it if it isn't ruined before then. Fold it up tightly and store it in a dry bag.

Location

Whether you are storing your kayak away inflated of deflated, put some thought into the storage location. If you are putting it in your garage that houses a few rodents, chances are, your kayak will be ruined. It also needs to be kept away from cats and dogs as well!

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Mathew_Waters/923995


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Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.kayakhelp.com. Please visit his complete kayaking guide for all skills and ages.

Kayak Sales

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 46-47 - 2 more hours

Prepped the lower coaming area and got the upper coaming installed. I only glassed the lower surface of the upper coaming. I think it will be better looking if I glass both together and run the glass down the inside of the lower coaming at the same time. Finally starting to look like a real kayak.

Days 48 - 3 more hours

Cut out the hatch openings. Very long process by hand. There is a problem keeping the blade perpendicular to the hull that would be much easier with a jig saw. We will all find out how good I did when I install them back on the hull.

Day 49 - 3 more hours

Out of town all week, first day back to the boat. Finished glassing the sheer in the hatch areas. Made some tools to assist with the process. I bought some sanding foam block and mounted them on a dowel. I could sand the surfaces almost all the way to the bow and stern. Also mounted a bristle brush on another stick to seat the glass with epoxy. Both worked very sell. Of course I also make the syringe extension as per the manual although going through the hatch openings, it turned out much shorter.

Day 50 - 5 more hours

Today I got a lot done. I glassed the upper edges of both bulkheads. The rear had quite a gap and I will fill the areas more when I do the stern pour. I used scraps of glass rather than the tape due to the odd shape of the areas. Worked pretty good. After everything had set up I moved the boat into my back yard to do the bow pour. I used a bucket of water to cool the bow. It did get hot. Tomorrow will try to get the stern done and get it back inside before it rains again. Also included a photo of my Hull ID Number. I used a felt tip pen on the surface and just put a layer of epoxy over it. Didn't come out too bad.

Day 51 - 1 more hour

I inverted the boat in my back yard and completed the other end pour (and then I went paddling with my kayak club CNY Kayakers ).

Kayak paddle blades

The blades of your kayak paddles are the most important part when it comes to worry about whether or not you'll be able to control the kayak. This part of the paddle effects how much water you can push with each stroke as well as how the paddle will be able to move through the water. You generally want a good balance between the amount of force you get with each stroke and how easy it is for the paddle to move through the water.

There are two main types of paddle blades: symmetrical and asymmetrical. The type of paddle that you use will generally have something to do with the type of kayaking you're intending on doing. Usually for people who are going kayak touring, asymmetrical paddles are the norm. This is due to the fact that the asymmetrical shape can help give you more control over the kayak - and makes it easier for the paddle to just move through the water.

Another thing that you should look at when you're trying to decide what type of paddle blades will work best for you are whether or not they are curved. If you're a beginner, then you'll probably want to start out with a flatter blade. This is due to the fact that these blades are very easy to control even if you're just starting out. However, if you're an experienced kayaker, then you might want to look into getting a curved blade. This is due to the fact that the curved blades will grip the water better and give you more power.

Some kayak blades are even curved in a cross section, instead of just being curved lengthwise. These blades will give different types of control over the water when they are being used, so you should probably check to see what the paddle blades look like before you buy any kayak paddles. Once again, if you're a beginner, then you will probably want to buy one of the flatter paddles, since they allow the most control.

If you're looking for kayak paddles, make sure that you take a good look at the blades before you buy them. For beginners, simpler is usually better, so if you've never been kayaking before, you should look into buying the flattest paddle blades that you can find. If you have been kayaking before, however, then you may want to experiment with the different types of paddle blades until you find the type that work best for you.

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Jakob Jelling is the founder of http://www.kayakhelp.com. Please visit his complete kayaking guide for all skills and ages.

CNY Kayak & Paddleboard Paddles

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Days 38-39 - 3 more hours

The deck is glued to the hull. I had a bit of a problem with the strapping tape not holding. I solved it by using my load straps. Conveniently I had enough. Did use some tape but found I had to encircle the boat completely so I could stick to itself. That could be because I had ½ inch tape and the manual call out ¾ inch. Not enough surface area?? Filled the gaps tonight and this weekend I will be able to fillet the inside sheer seam. I am quite pleased the bulkheads. Some gaps but they should fill nicely.

Days 40-41 - 3 more hours

I applied the fillets to both sides of the cockpit area and covered with the Glass tape. I will do the hatch areas once I cut those out. Looks pretty good. I am adding every option the boat has so I am running out of supplies. Ordered more tape, epoxy, rollers and some other supplies. The slides for the thigh pads took a lot of material. Pygmy also has a new thigh pad (precut) kit available soon. I ordered that as well.

The gaps in the areas between the hull and deck are driving me batty. They seem very hard to fill so I used a craft stick as a puddy knife and filled them. Looks kind of rough but they sanded out good.

Days 42- 43 - 4 more hours

Applied the saturation coat, let cure, sanded lightly and glassed the deck. When cutting the cloth for this step, be very careful. It is too easy to leave yourself some extra on one end only to find you need it for the other. I let the epoxy get (tacky) and cut the glass above the tape and removed. This worked very good. I am looking forward to installing the cockpit coaming, but that can wait.



Enough for this week, I'm paddling my other kayak this weekend.

Days 44-45 - 2 more hours

I have run out of supplies (epoxy and FG tape) so I have spent my time sanding out the areas where the glass overlapped at the cockpit area and prepared the components for the coaming. When the supplies arrived from Pygmy I was able to install the lower coaming and apply a light coating of epoxy to the sanded areas. A lot of clamps ARE necessary. I was very pleased just how well it covered. Amazing stuff.

Zegul Specials

Zegul Arrow Nuka GT in A-Core with Skeg $2299

Food to Fuel Stand Up Paddling

By Frank Giacomo

What you eat before your session can make a real difference to your SUP experience. It can help you to call on the energy and stamina required to keep going as long as the waves keep coming in. Without it you could find yourself sitting on the shore watching everyone else having a ball on their paddle boards because you didn't prepare well. Just as you would fuel your car, you need to fuel your body. So how do you prepare?

1. Carbohydrates - SUP is an endurance sport and relies on your ability to perform powerful movements so this is the fuel that your muscles need the most. Carbohydrates are also known as 'brain food', being the only fuel that your brain can use. If you don't eat enough carbs your body will need to slow down while it turns fat into fuel - not what you want if your racing against challenging waves or on a long-distance paddle.

2. Good fat - you don't need a lot, but you definitely need some especially when this endurance sport can require you to call on your body's fat stores to get through that last half an hour of paddling. Avocados and nuts are a good start to replacing your body's fat stores.

3. Protein - in addition to assisting your body to build muscle, protein is a vital part of a balanced and healthy diet and a strong immune system. It repairs any muscle damage that exercise can cause and keeps bones healthy. However, it is important to balance your protein intake as too little can lead to a loss of muscle mass and too much will only cause strain on the kidneys.

4. Fluids - 60-70% of the body is made up of water. Loosing just 2% of your body weight in fluid (which is easy to do in an hour on a hot day out in the water) can be detrimental to your performance, leading to lethargy and headaches. Making sure you replenish your fluids is extremely important. If you are doing strenuous paddling, you may need to replace lost electrolytes and this can be done through sports drinks and others with salt of citric acid to aid in absorption.

5. Calcium - as one of the key foods to building stronger bones, calcium is important to ensuring your bones are resilient enough to avoid fractures or bone diseases like osteoporosis. Calcium is abundant in different foods and can be found in sardines, tofu and dairy products.

6. Vitamins and minerals - leading a balanced and vitamin rich diet with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables is extremely important to your health and your ability to exercise. Vitamins and minerals will help your body to perform well and to recover from exercise.

With a balanced diet rich in carbohydrates, good fats, protein, fluids, calcium and vitamins and minerals, you should be fueled to perform. Now grab your paddle board and enjoy those long SUP sessions.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Frank_Giacomo/894008


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HOW TO STORE YOUR PADDLEBOARD AT HOME

ROGER’S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 29 - 2 more hours

Sanded and scraped to feather the edges of the reinforcing glass at the inside butt seam. Lightly sanded the inside edge to smooth out the saturation coat. Almost ready to glass the inside of the hull. Instructions say to lay down a strip of masking tape ¾" above the upper chine. Problem is how. I used a technique my body shop does at work to place lettering on vehicles. They use a jig to mark the dimension necessary and use that to align the tape. The craft sticks I have been using to stir the epoxy are just ¾". Worked great and fast.

Days 30-31 - 5 more hours

I have found parts of this project tedious, mundane, rewarding and exciting, but the last task I have completed has been the hardest; glassing the interior of the hull. This was tough to complete. It is nearly impossible to use the squeegee. All it did is raise the glass out of the seams. I ended up using a brush to carefully seat the glass to the surface. I know there is an excessive amount of epoxy on the surface but there is not much I could do about it. Even so there were several areas where the glass formed bubbles that I didn't find in time. Those areas I cut out the bubbles and used a piece of scrap glass to cover the areas properly. Maybe if I had more experience with glass/epoxy I wouldn't have found it so hard. No complaints, you have to learn somehow.

Days 32-35 - 8 more hours

I have spent the last few days getting everything ready for gluing the deck on. Surprising how much has to be completed first. I glued the studs for the footbraces in place. I like that so much more than drilling holes for bolts through the hull. I also put a fill coat on the glass in the cockpit area. Lots for smoothing out and filling areas where contact would be made by the paddler. No jagged edges rubbing my legs please.

I have started glassing the bulkheads and hatch components. I have decided to install my bulkheads (but not the hatches) before I glue on the deck. I have discussed this with Pygmy and their reply was "Our standard recommendation is to install bulkheads after all hull construction is complete to avoid any issues with your deck fitting the hull that can come up if the bulkheads are installed prior to deck being glued down." I am more concerned with their fit and until they are in the hull I can't verify their fit to the deck. This will also allow me to glass tape on both sides of the forward bulkhead.

Done for the week, now time for my kayaking.

Days 36-37 - 2 more hours

It has taken 2 days but I have the bulkheads installed in the hull. I used the glass tape on the cockpit side, since it will be seen and scraps on the hatch sides, since it won't be. I gave the tape side a day to cure before doing the scrap side. I noted that the hull was bowed out slightly from the bulkheads. To bring everything back together, I used my load straps to pull everything together. Worked good! I will use them again when I glue on the deck. They can exert a lot more pressure than tape and I didn't have to drill more holes.

This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale