Saturday, September 1, 2018

How to Store Your Kayak For Winter Properly


By Shannon Clark




If you're someone who is just getting started with kayaking, it's important that you take the time to learn how to store your kayak for winter. Winter storage is something many people miss out on and then when they go to pick their kayak back up for a kayak trip in the spring, they find out it doesn't look or function the same.

Here are the main things you must know in order to store it properly.

Clean The Outer Side Thoroughly

The first thing you should be doing is making sure you wash the entire kayak down with a hose first. This will clean off any dirt, salt, or other substances that might have gotten onto it during the summer runs.

A typical garden hose will work perfectly for this - just be sure you are cleaning all sides as best as you can.

Don't Neglect The Inner Portion

Once you're finished cleaning the outside, then your next step is to also clean the inside out as well. Usually water will get into the kayak as you're running the waves and if the salt sits there over winter it could weaken the boat.

Don't forget to clean in and around the handles as well - every area needs to be washed with clean water.

Stand It At An Angle

After you've finished watering it down, then the next thing to do will be to stand it upright at an angle. This will allow all the water to run off it and then when you store it, if it happens to rain or snow (if you're storing it outside), the water there will also run off it.

You never want to let water sit in your kayak and accumulate when you store it over the winter.

Add A Cover

Finally, if you're planning on storing it outside and the area you're thinking about does get a fair amount of sunlight, then you should also cover it with some form of tarp or other material.

This will be important to protect it from UV rays, which can really damage your boat.

So keep these tips in mind to store your kayak over winter. If you do them immediately after you finish your last trip, then you know you will be able to pick your kayak up again next year in the similar condition you left it.



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Camillus Kayak Shop New York

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.



Day 20 -3 more hours

I had forgotten that when you first coat or varnish a raw wood surface, you usually raise all the grain. Well, that's just what the epoxy did, it raised all the grain. After some scraping with the cabinet scraper and some 150 grit paper, I was ready for glass. It wasn't too bad. Some concerns at the stern, and I did use some clamps to secure the fabric initially. One thing I did at the stern you don't want to do. I secured the flaps of glass at the stern with tape so they wouldn't move. Having never worked with glass I didn't realize just how much of a problem it is to get the tape off the glass. It was not pretty. Don't do that.

It was really helpful to have my photographer, Anne, mixing epoxy for me during the glass installation. Saved much time and made it much easier. Next thing to do is to laminate the keel tape and apply the fill coats. Not much to photograph there. See you next week.

I had forgotten that when you first coat or varnish a raw wood surfaceDay 18-19 -2 more hours

Laminated the keel tape and applied the two fill coats. Not that difficult although the 6 oz. tape takes a lot of epoxy to wet out properly. It has been quite warm here so I have been placing my epoxy and hardener into a sink of cold water prior to usage and it works very well. As the manual says, the tape does have quite a pronounced edge on one side. Also noted the overlap at the stern. I will see just how well they smooth out later.

Laminated the keel tape and applied the two fill coats.Day 20-21 -7 more hours

The overlap at the stern cleaned up good! Assembled the deck on the hull. This was exciting. I can finally see the kayak. I ran into something that the manual didn't cover. It says to wire the fore and aft decks so the wire twists are on the outside, but it doesn't say how. On the fore deck you can reach two of the three joints but when you add the other panel #5, you have a box with no opening! I solved it by releasing the tape from the bow so it could flex up and installing the wires just enough so I could bend over the ends. After all were installed, I pulled the wires up and was able to twist them snugly. The first application of epoxy is applied to the joints. Tomorrow if it's cool enough I will apply thickened epoxy to smooth out the joints.

The overlap at the stern cleaned up good!The first application of epoxy is applied to the joints.Day 22 - 1.5 more hours

Mixed up some epoxy with wood flour to fill my seams. Not too bad. I did locate a potential problem. The manual states to cover the frames with tape and insert a piece of Mylar between the bow and stern so they don't get glued to the hull. On the 4PD model there is one other area on each side where you must take precaution as well. The very narrow section of panel #5 is so close to the hull, if there is any gap between the panel and the cockpit lip (this is an area where it is difficult not to have a gap), there will be leakage. Epoxy will run down the inside and bond the panel to the hull on the inside. I was able to separate the two by carefully inserting a razor knife and tapping it with a hammer. It popped apart neatly.

Tomorrow is another 96 degree day so I will let the epoxy cure.

Mixed up some epoxy with wood flour to fill my seams.This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

Friday, August 24, 2018

What to Pack When Taking Your Kids Kayaking

Kayaking can be a wonderful way for the whole family to get out of the house, away from electronic devices and into the big outdoors, breathing in the fresh air while spending quality time together. Paddling across a smooth body of water and enjoying the day while getting in some exercise is one of those fun family activity holidays that are sure to build memories that will last a lifetime. Including kids of all ages in a kayaking adventure can be easy and stress-free with a little advance planning, ensuring your trip runs smoothly and is fun for everyone!


Safety First


To start, make sure you all are equipped with Personal Flotation Devices (life jackets) for each member that fit nice and snug. Wear them from day one and your kids will never question having to wear them again. If your life jacket does not come equipped with a whistle, purchase and attach to each jacket, instructing your kids that whistles are for emergencies only.


Keep Dry


Assume clothing will get wet at some point during your kayaking adventure, so wear items made from quick-drying fabric or alternatively, invest in dry tops, pants or wetsuits specifically made for water sports. Store your shore clothing in waterproof dry bags – these are also good for storing food as the odours are contained and you won’t risk attracting nosy bears or other wildlife.


Sunshine & Bugs


Protect your kids from mosquitos and sunburn by packing and applying bug spray and a high SPF sunblock. Another option is to outfit them in long-sleeved bug shirts that will do double duty. A wide-rimmed hat with chin strap is also ideal to protect kids from the heat of the sun. Pack some rainwear, a must for any family activity holidays, in the event the weather turns before heading out onto the water.


Accessories


Proper sunglasses are essential for eye health and comfort when the sun’s rays are reflecting off the surface of the water, so make certain each person has a pair (and wears them!). Bring along binoculars for the kids to use during your kayak expedition and ask them to share any wildlife sightings with the rest of the family. Give one child a compass and allow him or her to guide the kayak or group.


Keep Hunger at Bay


Packing a wide assortment of healthy snacks in a number of small plastic bags or waterproof containers will fare well and will keep kids young and old satisfied. Family activity holidays require easy-to-pack, healthy snacks such as fresh apple pieces and grapes, dried apricots and dates, and biscuits. Mixing in some healthy snacks that are higher in fat, such as cheese, pine nuts and macadamia nuts will keep your kids feeling satisfied longer. Take double the amount of snacks you think will be sufficient in order to ensure you have enough for the trip.


Capture the Moment


Lastly, don’t forget the camera! Ensure your special moments together are captured and protect your camera by using a waterproof camera pouch that does not need to be removed to use. Store in your dry bags for extra protection in between uses.


Kayaking with your kids can be the perfect family activity. Holidays spent together on the water will be sure to float your spirits as much as your kayakBusiness Management Articles, as you bring the family together to do something fun and active together. It will no doubt lay the foundation for future trips your children will be sure to look forward to.



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ABOUT THE AUTHOR



Richard Edwards is the Managing Director of Summit & Blue, an adventure holiday company offering independently crafted family activity holidays to exciting destinations around the world, including France, Italy, Portugal, the USA and Canada. With unique itineraries and exciting activities like biking, hiking, white water rafting and canoeing, we create holidays for those looking for an experience a little more off the beaten track.




Kayaking Accessories

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.



Day 16 - 2 more hours

Finished the initial sanding tonight (I thought). After I got my leaf blower out and cleaned everything up, some more sanding will be required. I still have to fix those few seams that didn't get enough epoxy to fill them anyways. SO, not remembering what the "Epoxy Manual" said about hot days (it was 96 here today), I mixed a small batch, filled my syringe, and proceeded to fill the few gaps I have left. About 1/3 of the syringe later, it was so hot I couldn't hold it. I did get filled what I needed, I hope; but I think I will wait a few days till this heat wave is over. I removed the balance of the epoxy from the syringe with a screwdriver.

I also must acknowledge my photographer. She has threatened to quit if I don't.

Photos by Anne S.

Finished the initial sanding tonight (I thought).Day 17 - 1 more hour

Today I had to tackle a messy project. Both seams at the bow and stern need a fillet of epoxy, stiffened to the consistency of cake frosting. This allows the hull to be formed to the rounded shape at these joints without removing wood from the hull. The manual recommends that you fill the dental syringe and apply to both areas. The videos I have watched of this are tedious. It's like squirting toothpaste out of an eye dropper. Since it is the consistency of cake frosting, I went to a kitchen supply center and bought a cake decorating nozzle. I cut it to produce the correct size fillet, attached it to a plastic bag filled with epoxy and applied. It worked great and quickly. Tomorrow when I start to shape it into the correct dimensions I will find out how well it worked.

Today I had to tackle a messy project.Day 18 - 1.5 more hours

I sanded my fillets tonight and they came out pretty good. Did some more general sanding around the hull and my next step is the saturation coat of epoxy. This is a little scary with my experience level. Did I get the surface smooth enough? Will the small areas I haven't completely filled with epoxy create serious air pockets? We will find out tomorrow. Anyway, I can’t put it off any longer. We will see....

I sanded my fillets tonight and they came out pretty good.Day 19 - 1.5 more hours

Completed the saturation coat of epoxy and smoothed out all my bubbles. Now I wait until tomorrow and see the results. I really wish I knew what I was doing here. It didn't come out exactly as I thought it would. Of course, I don't know how it is supposed to come out in the first place. Don't you just love to do something for the first time; especially when you just spent a whole bunch of money on it and really hope it works out right.

Completed the saturation coat of epoxy and smoothed out all my bubbles.This Pygmy Murrelet Kayak is For Sale

Saturday, August 18, 2018

The Adventure of Kayaking


By Larry S. Kang




Nature has always surprised man with its bountiful abundance of beauty and strength. The mighty seas and the long rivers, twisting and turning, and the fierce rapids have always been intimidating. However, there are those adventurers that master the waters through various means, and kayaking is one of these. In one style of kayak, the paddler faces forward with their legs in front of them underneath a deck, and uses a double bladed paddle. Another style is the sit on top kayak. Most kayaks have a long front and rear deck and differ according to the type of water they are designed for. Ocean or sea kayaking is often done in the open sea, while whitewater kayaking is kayaking down the river rapids.

Kayaking adventures come in various different forms throughout the world. Kayaking enthusiasts commonly engage in whale watching, for example. Getting a glimpse of a gray whale or a humpback whale can be a memorable lifetime experience. Some kayakers have even had the opportunity to go kayaking alongside orcas, or killer whales. In a kayak, you can explore the extraordinary wilderness of the ocean in its fullest beauty. Having your own kayaking adventure increases awareness about the environment, the ecosystem and the need to preserve it.

Kayaking lets you discover and enjoy the enchantment and wonder of the beautiful waters and unmatched skies. Outstanding scenery and wildlife are added attractions which kayaking offers and acts as a total stress reliever. In addition to sea kayaking, kayaking adventures can also include lake kayaking and river rafting excursions. It is not necessary to have some prior experience in kayaking as guides who value safety and training as top priorities are available to cater to small groups of kayaking enthusiasts.

Thousands of plants, hundreds of different birds, and pristine waterways await you when you set out on a kayaking expedition. Like in every other sport, there is equipment that no paddler should be without. The primary equipment obviously is the kayak. The type of kayak largely depends on the size of the water body you plan to go kayaking in. For example, whitewater kayaks are much different from sea kayaks. The kayak you choose depends on what type of paddling you prefer, whether whitewater, lake, or ocean.

The next essential piece of equipment is the paddle. There are different types of paddles for different types of kayaking. A little research online or at an outdoor equipment store can help you choose the right paddle for your kayak. Also needed will be a life jacket, or personal flotation device, for every kayaker. Helmets are also required for whitewater kayaking. So, if you intend to go whitewater kayaking, you should definitely include a helmet on your shopping list.

Now that you have a fair idea of the abundant fun kayaking offers and the necessary equipment for this activity, pack your bags, set out on your kayaking expedition, and most of all enjoy! And, please remember to pack all your safety gear such as your life jacket or personal flotation device to ensure safe kayaking adventures!

Larry Kang is a writer on outdoor recreation topics such as hiking, kayaking, and nature photography. Learn more about kayaking trips [http://www.kayaksandkayaking.com] at Kayaks and Kayaking - Kayaking Trips .

Note: If you find this article useful, feel free to republish it on your website, e-zine, or newsletter as long as the credits above remain intact and the hyperlinks stay active.




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"The most important things are length, width and weight," Kitt says. "You have to get the right boat for the right job. The main difference is distance. You have to determine how far you want to paddle. A longer boat goes farther with less effort".



5 Things People Do Wrong When Buying a Kayak

ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.



Days 10-11 - 7 more hours

I cut one roll of wire (3 come with the kit) into 3.5 in lengths and made ½ in. staples per the instructions. There is a reason for this. The panels are held together with the staples but the internal forms/supports need longer wires. If you cut them all you will need to buy more wire. I did use about 1½ spools for the hull staples. Half a spool was used on the forms/supports and I have one left for the deck. My work table is now in its prime. It is the perfect height and size for wiring the hull. The 2' width is great for working one side and then the other. Once I got started it was hard to stop. This is the most rewarding part of the project to date. You just watch the hull come together.

I must comment on the fit of the components. Pygmy does a tremendous job of cutting the panels to the exact shape. Everything fits. A couple of forms/supports to install in the bow and stern and on to the next step.

Another comment; the instructions say to place some cardboard boxes under the first panels you wire to raise them off the surface. I used plastic flower pots and it worked even better.

I cut one roll of wire (3 come with the kit) into 3.5 in lengths and made ½ in. staples per the instructions. There is a reason for this. I must comment on the fit of the components. Pygmy does a tremendous job of cutting the panels to the exact shape.Another comment; the instructions say to place some cardboard boxes under the first panels you wire to raise them off the surface. Days 12 - 3 more hours

Finished wiring the hull. Added the spacers to the forms so the hull could be inverted. Tightened all the wires. Remember I said that it was so great to see the hull finally come together? That was before I started tightening all the wires. What a tedious job!

Gluing the joints comes next. I am really pleased as to how straight the lines came out. I do have a suggestion when tightening the wires. I used a linesman's pliers. They are a little heavier than most and make a very nice hammer (please tap gently) in repositioning the panels as you tighten the wires.

Finished wiring the hull. Days 12-13 - 5 more hours

Took a few days off to go camping with my kayak club. Starting gluing the hull, first day did the general overview and the second went back, propping the hull up so I could get the vertical edges. A bit messy project. I don't see any other way to get it done. I anticipate a bunch of sanding prior to glassing. Getting the correct consistency with the wood flour takes some experimenting. It's handy to actually go look at honey before you try to make the epoxy look the consistency of it.

Starting gluing the hullDay 14 - 2 more hours

Removed the wires tonight. Hot glued the supports and everything stayed together. Wow. I had tried not to use epoxy near the wires. There are too many examples on "You Tube" where the wires get permanently epoxied to the boat. I have some gaps to fill but all the wires came out good. Nothing worthy of a photo today.

Day 15 - 2 more hours

Started sanding the hull. It is really hard to imagine how much epoxy drips down the side of your work, no matter how careful you are. The instructions say to file the bow and stern clean, well that is an understatement as to what really needs to be done. I tried just about everything and finally got out the orbital sander with 60 grit paper and went to work. It's working! Probably got about 2/3 to ¾ of the hull darn smooth. I am really surprised how much epoxy had worked itself under the wires. I don't think I will have much to fill in later. Tomorrow I will try to finish sanding the hull.

Started sanding the hull. I will try to finish sanding the hull.

Saturday, August 11, 2018

How to Store Your Paddleboard at Home


By Kate E Gallagher




Stand up paddleboards are used for a surface water sport called paddleboarding. Paddleboarders stand on them and move around the ocean, a lake or a river by use of paddles. They look like surfboards but they are bigger. Due to their big sizes, it becomes hard to store them especially for people with limited spaces in their homes. These are some tips which will help you store your stand up paddleboard securely if you have a limited space in your home.

Use Inflatable Paddleboards

Storage of an inflatable paddleboard can be easy and space saving. After paddleboarding, you need to deflate, roll and place it in a compact storage bag. This bag can then be stored in a shelf, closet, cabinet or even in the trunk of your car. The paddleboard should be cleaned and dried up before storage. This may be a tiresome process as you have to inflate it again before going for paddleboarding but it's very easy to store it especially if you have a limited space in your home.

Use of Paddleboard Racks

You can also install paddleboard racks it the walls of your garage or even house where you can suspend your stand up paddleboard. They have hooks which hold the boards in position and are very easy to install. They will help you utilize the limited space in your home efficiently as you will suspend the paddleboard firmly in the walls of your garage which are usually free. Some racks are very beautiful when fixed at the walls of a house hence can be used as decorative elements as they hold the paddleboards. Hanging the paddleboard on walls is a highly recommended storage method as it keeps them dry which makes them durable.

Build Your Own Rack

A couple of people will custom build their own paddleboard storage areas in their home or backyards. A paddleboard lift can be installed in the ceiling rafters of a garage or attic, so the board lays flat, but it is still safely still out of the way. Others will take to their back yard and get a few pieces of weather treated wood and a tarp and construct their own little paddleboard shelving system. These keep the boards out of the house, where there may be very little space, but still ensures they are not just sitting on the ground outside exposed to the elements.

Any of these methods should be able to give you some good ideas as to where to store your paddleboard at home, especially if you are limited on space.



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Paddleboard Dealer Syracuse NY .


ROGER'S NEW PROJECT IS THE BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

Day 6 - 1.5 more hours

Did the second glassing on the current sections. I see the benefits of doing the inside of the panels first. No matter how much weight you place on top of the joint, there tends to be one end or side that ends up slightly. This may leave a blemish in the surface. By doing the inside first you can sand the outside perfectly flat and hence a perfect surface. One more set of panels and the cockpit circle and I can start wiring. Can’t wait!

Also found out what a Murrelet is. It is a smaller Northwestern coastal sea bird related to the auk and puffin. It is also listed as endangered. I am looking for a neat decal to put on my deck that would relate to the murrelet. If anyone has an idea I would love to hear from you. To send ideas, go to the "Submit Article" tab in the left column of our website. Golf tomorrow - no working on boat.

Day 7 -2 More Hours

I have finished combining the individual strips into the 6 (12) panels for assembly. Slight imperfections in the surfaces bother me and I am going to try to lightly sand them smooth before I proceed. Have to make my drilling jig yet. Drilling the initial holes for assemble should take several days. I hope to start wiring the hull together by the weekend.

Day 8 - 3 more hours

All my joints are done and I must admit I don't like them all. I didn't use enough epoxy on the edges to eliminate all the bubbles, especially on the first joints completed. I have feathered them back a bit and only hope the glass coat will cover. The instructions did say to apply adequate amounts of epoxy. It would also have helped if I had cleaned the Mylar sheets used to cover and flatten the joints a little better between usages. Remember, one of the reasons I am writing these reports is so you don't have to repeat my mistakes. (I really hate those project reports were everything goes perfectly anyways.)

The edges at the sheerline are beveled and my drilling jig is made. Tomorrow I start drilling holes for the wires. I did notice that the stern section of one panel is at a slightly different angle. I do hope is doesn't create an alignment problem later. Everything else is really very well aligned. I contacted Pygmy on the panels and they advised that they should work fine. Nice customer support.

All my joints are done and I must admit I don't like them all.Days 8-9 - 4 more hours

Made my drilling jig and got all the holes drilled. You do need to follow the instructions. Get them on the correct sides of the panels and don't forget the ends. I used a small electric screwdriver as a drill. Much lighter and with the " allen head" drive, the bit slips out easily and makes using the jig as a holding device great. Also, use lots of clamps to hold the pieces securely. I am taking the weekend off. The next step is bending my wires into staples.

Made my drilling jig and got all the holes drilled.

Saturday, August 4, 2018

BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK FROM A KIT TO PUT TOGETHER.

BUILDING OF A PYGMY MURRELET KAYAK

Over the next few weeks you will be able to follow Roger as he finishes his new kayak from the ground up with reports weekly and pictures of his progress as the building unfolds. If you are planning a project like this, you will gain insight about the process. So stay tuned.

Pygmy Murrelet 4PD V2 Project

I have put off, for every possible excuse, my desire to build my own kayak for years. I finally realized that if I continued putting it off, I will never do it. Seeing the review in Sea Kayaker Magazine on the Pygmy Murrelet convinced me that today was a great day to start. So I ordered it.

The biggest concern I had was Fiberglass and Epoxy. I have never worked with these. Second is where to build it. I decided my car was going to spend the summer in the driveway and Epoxy and I were going to learn to be good friends.

There are going be challenges. My garage is 80 years old with the typical 80 years old concrete floor. Dirt would be more level. I will need to add lighting. I need a work surface. I will also have get over my fear of Fiberglass and epoxy.

Over the summer, I will attempt to document my adventures. Hopefully I can point out the problems I have, so you don’t have to repeat them, and show my successes.

Day 1 - 2 Hours

This being my first project of this type, I had read the manuals multiple times. I thought I was ready to start, but since the "Epoxy Manual" had said to practice on some scrap material before starting, I followed those instructions. Wow, I didn’t have anything ready. What an eye opener that was.

Starting over with the real thing, I had my weights cleaned, 2x4's and Mylar cut, all the sets of boards grouped, fiberglass strips measured and cut and finally I thought I was ready to start. My next problem was about to begin.

I am limited as to how much space I had to build the project. To give myself the flattest and most level surface to work on, I took a ¾ inch sheet of plywood, split it down the middle and made a 2' x 16' work surface. Using shims and a good level I succeeded in getting it perfect. Problem is it is too small to join only but a couple of lengths at one time. Using 1 pump of each of the epoxy and hardener, I am left with epoxy that I have no place to use. I will have to mark the pumps in some way that I can reduce my waste.

None the less, I tacked my boards to the surface, aligned my edges and made my first glass joints. Tomorrow I find out how I did. To be continued……..

"Epoxy Manual" had said to practice on some scrap material before starting"Epoxy Manual" had said to practice on some scrap material before startingDay 3 - 2 Hours

Well I have learned that it is very difficult to reduce the amount of Epoxy. Without a full stroke, you don't get the proper mix. Doing the second side of the first panels turned into a mess. It never hardened. Back to full strokes.

Now working on the second set of boards. Photo below shows the width of my work surface. Would be nice to have a nice flat garage floor allow me to do all the boards a once, but don't have that.

Solved another problem. What to do with the panels when I have finished them. I removed one of my boats from the storage rack and put an extension ladder in its place. Works great. To be continued…..

Now working on the second set of boards.Day 5 - 2.5 More Hours

Three Sections (6 pieces) are now joined. I did the first coat of glass on two more sections tonight; one to go. This portion of the build has taken more nights than I wish but I can't complain too much. Trying to complete them all at one time would be a lot of hustling and may have led to more errors.

A note on materials: The manuals state that epoxy will not adhere to plastics bags. They are used under the panels to keep them from being epoxied to the work surface. This is true, but epoxy does adhere to the ink on the bags. This is not good. I am using waxed paper now. It works very clean and is much easier to use than plastic.

Three Sections (6 pieces) are now joined.

Sunday, July 29, 2018

5 Things People Do Wrong When Buying a Kayak


By Emily Peyton




Buying the right kayak can mean the difference between discovering a passion and throwing away money on a miserable experience. Steer clear of these 5 common mistakes and discover why so many people are passionate about kayaking!

1. Assuming beginners and recreational kayakers don't need an expensive kayak. Actually, this is the wrong way around. An experienced kayaker has a much better chance of being able to get a cheap kayak to go straight and not in circles. If you are just interested in occasional recreational kayaking, you need an easy-to-paddle kayak, and cheap kayaks are never easy to paddle - they are like trying to steer a bath tub. People often say to me - I'll start with something cheaper and if I like kayaking, I'll get a better one, but if you get a cheap kayak, YOU WILL NOT LIKE KAYAKING!

2. Buying a short kayak because its easier to carry and transport. Long kayaks go faster and straighter - and if you don't think this matters, try paddling a pool toy across a lake and you will see what I mean. Short kayaks are great for white water because they turn easier. But if you are not into white water, DON'T GET ONE. If you want a lightweight kayak that fits in your car, check out the huge range of quality inflatable kayaks that are now available - you'll be much happier than you would be with a short hard shell.

3. Buying a no-name brand. Design is the most important factor in determining the performance. A well designed kayak will glide through the water, be comfortable to sit in, be stable and be durable. If you go with a no-name brand, it is unlikely that the company will have invested heavily in the design, and you may find that it has no momentum, goes in circles or continually veers to one side, digs uncomfortably into your back or your bum, and then breaks.

4. Buying a tandem kayak. If you are soon to participate in the Olympics tandem kayak race, then this purchase might be justified. But if you are a recreational kayaker and you think you might get a tandem so that you can go out with your partner, think again. A bit of independence and distance is healthy in all relationships! Tandems are a cause of tension between kayakers - the person in the back gets splashed, the person in the front isn't setting a steady rhythm, either person isn't paddling enough, etc - and when you want to have a break from all this, you are stuck with a kayak that you can't take out by yourself. If you are hooked on the romance of the tandem, compromise with a convertible kayak that can be paddled solo or tandem.

5. Reading kayak reviews without considering 1-4 above. When you are reading a review, think about whether the person might have made any of the mistakes I have listed. They may be complaining that an inflatable kayak got a puncture on the second use, for example, but did they buy a cheap unknown brand? Similarly, if they are complaining that the kayak is hard to steer straight, is it too short? And if they are complaining about their paddling partner, forgive them - tandem kayaks bring out the worst in people!

Emily Peyton has five years experience selling kayaks in Australia as the owner of http://www.OzInflatableKayaks.com.au.




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"The most important things are length, width and weight," Kitt says. "You have to get the right boat for the right job. The main difference is distance. You have to determine how far you want to paddle. A longer boat goes farther with less effort".

Day 74 – 1.5 Hour

First coat of varnish is applied. 2-3 more coats to go. The smell is terrible in the house. We are moving the project to the garage to complete the project. Weather is finally becoming warm enough to finish everything there, plus I have better light.

First coat of varnish is applied. 2-3 more coats to go.Day 75-77 – 4 Hour

3 ½ coats of varnish later and I pulled off the painters tape. I will have to repaint parts of the hull. In the better light I can finally see where it didn’t cover well and I have some varnish runs. I have installed the seat back and drain plugs. Next I will be applying the contact cement for the seat after the varnish cures completely. I must say I am pretty happy.

3 ½ coats of varnish later and I pulled off the painters tape.Day 78 – 1 Hour

Short day today. Installed the seat. I used a "dry erase" marker to outline the seat placement and estimated the interior space necessary to apply the contact cement. After allowing it to dry, I positioned wax paper over the surfaces. This allowed me to place the seat in position without immediate contact being made. I then pulled the wax paper out and applied some bricks and spacer to hold it in position.

I positioned wax paper over the surfaces.Day 79-80 – 1 Hour

I touched up the hull with a little more paint in the areas where it did not cover well. DONE! Moved it outside for some photos and realized I hadn’t installed the foot braces. It will be in the water this week.

DONE! Moved it outside for some photosDONE! Moved it outside for some photosDay 81 – IN THE WATER!

Today we led the boat to water and it did swim. Most rewarding part was the smile on my lady’s face. It is exactly what we were looking for in another boat. Now our biggest problem will be to find some place to store it among the other boats the two of us have. We are now up to eight. I am certain it will get much usage.

This has been a great project. The major problem with the build was shown in Report 7. Trying to fill the fillets between the planks in one step was the killer. If I had done this in two steps I estimate it would have reduced 20-30 hours from the build and given me a much smoother surface to finish. Well, that is why I documented the build. Don’t repeat my errors, learn from them.

IN THE WATER!

Saturday, July 21, 2018

Standup Paddleboarding - The Newest Surfing Sport - Everybody Can Do It |Sassafras 12 Canoe Project


By Chuck Herpick




These days, because of the popularity of the Standup Paddleboard sport, it seems that you will see a SUP on just about every lake, bay, river, and calm body of water. You will see them everywhere, because riding a SUP is lots of fun and a great sport. You see them on all of the oceans. In the last few years, you can also go to the interior parts of most countries where there are lakes and water and you will see more and more people of all ages riding them. Most families who have become active in the sport of riding Standup Paddle Boards have more than one SUP in their garage or on the surf rack of their car as they head for the nearest body of water.

Surfboards require waves for enjoyment of standup surfing. With SUPs, you do not need waves to have a good outing. All you need is a smooth body of water and a paddle especially designed and fitted to your height making it possible for you to standup paddle these big boards. They are big boards. But they are light enough for most people to carry and they have carrying handles or straps to make it easy.

This new sport allows you to get together with your friends, social groups, clubs, or just yourself and spend some leisure time on the water, sightseeing, cruising, and enjoying the fresh air and sunshine.

While you are paddling, you are getting good exercise and some special time alone or with your friends in a very healthy atmosphere. Many who ride a SUP use it for physical training. It is especially good for core, legs, and shoulder training. An hour of steady paddling will wear you out and give you a terrific workout. While you are training or just paddling, it will clear your mind and get your blood flowing for a good cardiovascular workout.

All you need to do is get a board and a paddle that are suited for you so that you will have a smooth stable ride. Proper sizing of your SUP and paddle is very important. It might also be a good idea for you to take a lesson or two from your local surf shop or water sports facility. The experts in the shop and your instructor will make sure that you make the proper choices.

SUPs range in price from $450 to $2,000. They come in different types and designs. There are beginner hard and soft SUPs, intermediate and professional SUPs. After you have taken your lesson, talk to the SUP instructor or shop owner, you will be able to make a good decision based on your own physical condition, size, and level of experience. Your desire and motivation will probably determine how much you decide to invest in your new SUP.

So my friends, get in the flow and try this new fantastic sport.




Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/expert/Chuck_Herpick/1477936


http://EzineArticles.com/?Standup-Paddleboarding---The-Newest-Surfing-Sport---Everybody-Can-Do-It&id=7518471




Day 65 – 1.5 Hours

Completed the major sanding of the outside of the hull. I just have to go over the surface with 220 grit paper and I can start the finish. Enough for the week, I’m tired.

Completed the major sanding of the outside of the hull.

Day 66 – 3 Hours

Finished the fine sanding and after moving the boat to my larger room finally got started with the finish. First I washed the hull with dish soap and after rinsing, rubbed the entire surface with white vinegar. As per the manual, polyurethane paint sometimes does not like to bond to epoxy. I then applied the first coat of polyurethane. Stinky stuff. I wore my respirator and didn’t smell a thing, until I took it off. Really wish it was warmer out, I would have done this in my garage. Now it’s waiting to see if it bonds to the epoxy. I will let it cure for an extra day before the fine sanding and next coat.

 As per the manual, polyurethane paint sometimes does not like to bond to epoxy.

Days 66-69 – 6 Hours

The instructions for the finish is to use light applications, sand with 320 grit paper between coats and probably 3 coats will cover. Well it doesn’t cover in three coats and don’t use a heavier applications or it will run, and I do mean run. I do have a mess to straighten out with my finish. More light coats and more sanding to straighten everything out. My assistant tells me it looks great and it will be her boat, but I am not happy with my efforts. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!

Anyways, it is going to be great. I will be removing the painters tape within the next few days and starting the varnish on the inside and decks. It will be ready for the water soon.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!!

Days 71-73 – 6 Hours

Not a lot to write about so far this week. After stripping the painters tape off I spent the last few days sanding the interior of the hull. Finally I washed the interior and decks with dish soap and white vinegar. The painter tape is now applied to the exterior of the hull and I am ready for the spar varnish. That starts this weekend.

Finally I washed the interior and decks with dish soap and white vinegar.