CHESAPEAKE LIGHT CRAFT - SASSAFRAS 12 CANOE PROJECT

Days 8-9 – Hours 6

I have moved the project to the new room and you can see it’s much smaller. I have tightened my wires and CLC advises that the replacement parts are being shipped tomorrow. I have also started installing the bulkheads. The instructions advise that you will have to push the sides of the hull in to meet it and they were not kidding. It will take some clamps to encourage them into place. Now all I can do is wait for the replacements parts to show up so it looks like I am going to take a Holiday break. I will be back on the project after the holiday. Merry Christmas!

Report 4 – 23 Hours to date

Days 10-12 – Hours 3

I have received my replacement parts from CLC. I was concerned about the shipment being damaged and was pleasantly surprised just how well they were packaged. Nice Job!

Now I removed the damaged panel and using it as a template, epoxied the panel and inwale together. The hull looks a little strange without the panel, but it will survive. I also used the old panel to allow me to predrill the holes necessary for the wires. My only concern here is do I have enough wire to mount the new panel to the hull.

I didn't get as much done the week as I had planned but I had to wait for the replacement parts to be delivered and we also got over two feet of snow so I have been shoveling.

Report 5 – 40 Hours to date

I have reinstalled the new plank 5 onto the hull. Looks good. The hull looks fair and I spent a lot of time tightening the wires as equally as I could. I did run out of copper wire but had kept what I hadn’t used on the last project. I added some additional wires at the stems and behind the bulkheads. The ones on the stems are for security. A lot of pressure on a little bit of wood. The ones at the bulkheads did a pretty good job of pulling everything together. Tomorrow I hope to get started with the fillets in the stems and the bulkhead areas.

CHESAPEAKE LIGHT CRAFT - SASSAFRAS 12 CANOE PROJECT

Days 4-5 – 5 Hours

I started to assemble the hull. Wiring the first two panels always seems to be the hardest. You are working upside down with the planks flopping all over. I used the method I used with my kayak and used two flower pots to raise the planks off the table and allow some movement. I then flipped it over and started the rest of the planks. This goes pretty fast and is quite rewarding as the hull finally starts to take some shape. I finally ran out of staples and patience and quit for the night. Three more planks to go and I can start to bring the stems together.

Day 6 – 2 Hours

I made up some more wires and got the second plank #4 installed. Now I have a problem. One of the mahogany inwales must have been a bit too dry and after I epoxied it to plank #5, snapped in two. I tried to epoxy it back together (it is glued to plank #5 and not about to be removed) and that failed a second time. I have epoxied it again and I have emailed CLC and will wait for their reply.

Day 7 – 4 hours

CLC was very prompt getting back to me on the failure and the parts are in the mail. Nice. I had the day off so rather than wait for the new parts, I continued with the build. When the replacements get here I will replace the failed pieces, using them as a template for the glue up and necessary wire holes. I was able to repair the failed inwale enough to use but it is not flat and does really looks bad.

The hull came together nicely but I will suggest you wire the ends together after installing the 4th panels. The hull tends to curve inward to the point you have no access to install the wires on the 5th panels. Wiring the ends straightens everything out nicely. I also started wiring at the center of the 5th panels and working to the ends. Much easier!

Tomorrow I will try to install the bulkheads and tighten some wires, but that all for tonight.



"The most important things are length, width and weight," Kitt says. "You have to get the right boat for the right job. The main difference is distance. You have to determine how far you want to paddle. A longer boat goes farther with less effort".

CHESAPEAKE LIGHT CRAFT - SASSAFRAS 12 CANOE PROJECT

Days 4-5 – 5 Hours

I started to assemble the hull. Wiring the first two panels always seems to be the hardest. You are working upside down with the planks flopping all over. I used the method I used with my kayak and used two flower pots to raise the planks off the table and allow some movement. I then flipped it over and started the rest of the planks. This goes pretty fast and is quite rewarding as the hull finally starts to take some shape. I finally ran out of staples and patience and quit for the night. Three more planks to go and I can start to bring the stems together.

Day 6 – 2 Hours

I made up some more wires and got the second plank #4 installed. Now I have a problem. One of the mahogany inwales must have been a bit too dry and after I epoxied it to plank #5, snapped in two. I tried to epoxy it back together (it is glued to plank #5 and not about to be removed) and that failed a second time. I have epoxied it again and I have emailed CLC and will wait for their reply.

Day 7 – 4 hours

CLC was very prompt getting back to me on the failure and the parts are in the mail. Nice. I had the day off so rather than wait for the new parts, I continued with the build. When the replacements get here I will replace the failed pieces, using them as a template for the glue up and necessary wire holes. I was able to repair the failed inwale enough to use but it is not flat and does really looks bad.

The hull came together nicely but I will suggest you wire the ends together after installing the 4th panels. The hull tends to curve inward to the point you have no access to install the wires on the 5th panels. Wiring the ends straightens everything out nicely. I also started wiring at the center of the 5th panels and working to the ends. Much easier!

Tomorrow I will try to install the bulkheads and tighten some wires, but that all for tonight.



"The most important things are length, width and weight," Kitt says. "You have to get the right boat for the right job. The main difference is distance. You have to determine how far you want to paddle. A longer boat goes farther with less effort".

12'0'' | ENDURANCE PADDLE BOARD

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12’0” | ENDURANCE PADDLE BOARD

This stand up paddle board is best for touring. The Endurance is the ultimate touring SUP board built for overnight multi-day camping adventures.

Board Story

The Pau Hana 12’0” Endurance is the ultimate touring SUP. It’s the best paddle board for overnight camping trips and weekend adventures. The hull is reinforced and protected with Ricochet™ (Pau Hana’s proprietary technology), so that it can bounce off rocks and take a the beatings other boards can’t. It was also designed to carry all the gear you need for long adventures on water trails, along coast lines, and archipelagos.

• Ricochet™ hull protection that can withstand up to 1000psi.


• The Endurace has 35 SeaMount® anchor points to bolt down gear and keep it in place. Our gorilla nets are strong and hold stuff down securely. If you wipe out and get worked over in a rogue wave, rapid, or current, your gear won’t fly off or slip away.


• The shape was patterned off our fastest racing board so it paddles efficiently and it’s beefed up in the tail to accommodate heavy loads.


• The soft grab handles on the nose and tail make it easy to pull into or out of the water.


• The full length recessed deck and pad we’re designed to sleep on so that you can be level and insulated.

It was designed by Todd Caranto, a pioneer of the SUP industry who’s been making paddle boards since 2007. The Pau Hana Endurance is the ultimate rugged touring board built for off the grid adventures.

12'0'' | ENDURANCE AIR PADDLE BOARD

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12’0” | ENDURANCE AIR PADDLE BOARD

This stand up paddle board is best for touring. The ultimate touring board now comes in a super portable inflatable package that can be checked as regular luggage and easily taken anywhere on the planet.

Board Story

Check in your touring board as regular luggage and get the adventure started, or chuck it in the back of your car. The Ultimate touring board now comes in an ultra portable package for off the grid adventures anywhere on the planet. The new Endurance Air is an inflatable version of the Endurance touring board and is the first inflatable ever to feature SeaMount®. Now, all existing SeaMount® accessories are compatible, plus the carrying bag doubles as gear hauler while you’re on the water. It can easily be hiked into remote locations and carry all the necessary equipment for camping overnight. It comes with 23 SeaMount® attachment points and 23 D-Ring loops already attached.

11'0'' | NAVIO PADDLE BOARD

Chesapeake Light Craft - Sassafras 12 Canoe Project

Day 2 – 2 Hours

I finished gluing the remaining planks and outwales tonight. These scarfed joints are not as easy to connect. They seem to leave quite a gap or they overlap too much and aren't as flat as I would like. It would be nice to have the completed dimensions for each plank so you could position them more accurately. One of my bottom planks (plank 1) had quite a rough joint. I filled it with some additional epoxy to smooth out the transition. Since I plan to paint the outside of the hull and the seat will cover the inside seam, I don't think it will be a problem. Both # 1 planks are exactly the same length.



I spent the rest of the time tonight cutting wire and making the staples for the assembly. I had kept the gig I used on the last project (a 2x4 with a hole ½ inch from one edge) and it worked quite well.

Day 3 – 3 Hours

Started sanding the planks tonight. I was able to find an adaptor for my shop vac so I could attach it to my orbital sander. Saved a big mess. The rabbits were another situation. They were quite rough. I found a sanding sponge worked great and made short work of it. Sanding a taper at the end of the rabbits was another story. I had purchased the Riffler Rasp 8 piece set from CLC and they worked great. Last thing tonight was to glue one of the inwales to a # 5 plank. Didn’t have enough clamps for both.



"The most important things are length, width and weight," Kitt says. "You have to get the right boat for the right job. The main difference is distance. You have to determine how far you want to paddle. A longer boat goes farther with less effort".

Chesapeake Light Craft, Chesapeake Light Craft Wooden Boat Kits

Sassafras 12 Canoe